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Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Konichiwa, Chevy!
Check out this gem (Jalopnik via Dublin Saab). It's a photo of a Toyota racing trailer being pulled by... a Chevrolet.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
British International Motor Show 2008
The next British International Motor Show takes place Wednesday 23rd July - Sunday 3rd August 2008 at London's ExCeL Centre in the Docklands. After the huge success of the 2006 show, the next British International Motor Show is already gearing up to be a spectacular experience with even more stunning global car launches, more interactive entertainment and more fun and thrills for all the family.
In July 2006 The British International Motor Show made a spectacular return to London after a 30 year absence. Whether you made it to the UK's number 1 consumer show, or not, you may have missed some of these amazing features.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Ethanol Vs. Beer
One of the market distortions that is being caused by the government mandate for ethanol in transportation fuel is the rising cost of all kinds of food, including one of my favorites: beer.
According to the WSJ in a fascinating article from October 5th, 2007, small beer brewers are getting squeezed by dramatically higher prices of barley and hops.
Wouldn't it be better to allow importation of Brazilian sugar beet based ethanol, tariff free, and leave more of our agricultural capacity for the tasty stuff?
According to the WSJ in a fascinating article from October 5th, 2007, small beer brewers are getting squeezed by dramatically higher prices of barley and hops.
Consumers could pay 50 cents to $1 per six pack more in the coming months for many small-batch "craft beers," as brewers pass on rising hops and barley costs from an unpalatable brew of poor harvests, the weak dollar and farmers' shift to more profitable crops. Other makers of craft beers, the fastest-growing segment of the U.S. brewing industry, say they may eat the higher ingredient costs, which will pare their profits.The price of malting barley has increased by a whopping 75% in the last several months, from around $4/bushel to about $7/bushel. As a result, the price of small-batch beer is expected to increase, and some small beer makers are actually in danger of folding.
...
Craft beer makers have faced escalating costs over the past year. Prices for malting barley, which accounts for a beer's color and sweetness, have jumped as farmers increasingly shifted to planting corn, which has been bringing higher prices because of high demand from makers of biofuels, like ethanol. The weak dollar also has made it more expensive for U.S. brewers to buy commodities from Europe.
Wouldn't it be better to allow importation of Brazilian sugar beet based ethanol, tariff free, and leave more of our agricultural capacity for the tasty stuff?
The 40th Tokyo Motor Show
The 40th Tokyo Motor Show 2007 will be held at Makuhari Messe in Chiba City for 17 days from October 26th (Friday) through November 11th (Sunday) this year. The show will be opened to the public from October 27th (Saturday).
At this year's show, upgraded special events that involve audience participation and experiences will be offered to generate excitement about vehicles, such as five types of test ride programs where visitors can actually come in contact with cars. The entertainment aspect will be heightened so that a wide range of visitors including women and youth, as well as families, can enjoy a full day at the show.
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Addicted.
I'm addicted to this free "tower defense" type game. It's really good.
http://onslaught.playr.co.uk/
http://onslaught.playr.co.uk/
Friday, October 12, 2007
How to Reduce Car Insurance Payments
When it comes to automobile insurance, you can save a significant sum of money by asking the right questions and by taking certain steps.
Step One
Insure all your vehicles with one company to take advantage of multi-car discounts.
Step Two
Ask about multi-line discounts if you are also buying other lines of insurance.
Step Three
Know the value of your vehicles. Drop collision and comprehensive coverage on older vehicles you can afford to replace.
Step Four
Check before changing cars since rates on cars of equal value can vary.
Step Five
Ask about discounts for air bags, anti-theft devices, anti-lock brakes and similar equipment.
Step Six
Ask about discounts for drivers over 40 or 50, if applicable.
Step Seven
Select the highest collision and comprehensive deductibles you can afford.
Step Eight
Buy only coverage you do not already have from some other source such as an auto club.
Step Nine
Make an older, less valuable vehicle the primary transportation for younger drivers in your household.
Step Ten
Make sure younger drivers take driver's education courses.
Step Eleven
Notify your agent if your younger driver makes a "B" average or above in school, and ask about a "Good Student Discount."
Step Twelve
Ask about discounts for being "accident free" over a period of time.
Stay with a company that gives fair, friendly and economical service. Never lie about your driving record to reduce rates. Misrepresentation can invalidate a contract, and your insurance company can refuse to pay a loss.
Step One
Insure all your vehicles with one company to take advantage of multi-car discounts.
Step Two
Ask about multi-line discounts if you are also buying other lines of insurance.
Step Three
Know the value of your vehicles. Drop collision and comprehensive coverage on older vehicles you can afford to replace.
Step Four
Check before changing cars since rates on cars of equal value can vary.
Step Five
Ask about discounts for air bags, anti-theft devices, anti-lock brakes and similar equipment.
Step Six
Ask about discounts for drivers over 40 or 50, if applicable.
Step Seven
Select the highest collision and comprehensive deductibles you can afford.
Step Eight
Buy only coverage you do not already have from some other source such as an auto club.
Step Nine
Make an older, less valuable vehicle the primary transportation for younger drivers in your household.
Step Ten
Make sure younger drivers take driver's education courses.
Step Eleven
Notify your agent if your younger driver makes a "B" average or above in school, and ask about a "Good Student Discount."
Step Twelve
Ask about discounts for being "accident free" over a period of time.
Tips & Warnings
How to Select a GPS Car Navigation System
Have you ever settled behind the wheel of your car wondering whether you really know how to get to your destination? Fear no more. GPS (Global Positioning System) car navigation systems can show and even tell you how to get to any destination. These products use the GPS, which relies on a host of satellites to determine where you are.
Step One
Decide how often you intend to use the system. Inexpensive systems simply plug in to your car's cigarette lighter and are small enough to store in your glove compartment, but they're not as user-friendly.
Step Two
Consider the layout of your car. Some systems come with a monitor that displays a map. The monitor is commonly installed on the dashboard or on a pedestal extending from the dashboard. In some cars, such an installation may block air vents or make it somewhat uncomfortable for a passenger to enter or exit the vehicle or sit in the passenger seat.
Step Three
Select a system that features multiple ways of getting to your destination. This can include by address, by intersection, by a personal address book or via a location selected directly from the map.
Step Four
Look for a system that gives you vocal as well as graphical directions. The systems that use a map and monitor include arrows that show you the direction of a turn and also indicate where your car is on the map in relation to the destination. Other systems use the head unit or radio to display the name of the street on which you are to make a turn or on which you are traveling. Both of these systems also give you verbal directions as you approach a turn.
Step Five
Select a system that includes point of interest data. Most GPS systems include locations of airports and other transportation services, ATMs and banks, restaurants, hotels and a host of other sites.
Step Six
Choose a system that offers updates of the point-of-interest data.
Step Seven
Consider installation time if you are working on a tight budget. Systems that rely on maps displayed on monitors are more complicated and take longer to install than other types of systems.
Tips & Warnings
Manufacturers of GPS car navigation systems warn that, if the product is installed by a consumer or an unauthorized dealer, the company will void the warranty.
Step One
Decide how often you intend to use the system. Inexpensive systems simply plug in to your car's cigarette lighter and are small enough to store in your glove compartment, but they're not as user-friendly.
Step Two
Consider the layout of your car. Some systems come with a monitor that displays a map. The monitor is commonly installed on the dashboard or on a pedestal extending from the dashboard. In some cars, such an installation may block air vents or make it somewhat uncomfortable for a passenger to enter or exit the vehicle or sit in the passenger seat.
Step Three
Select a system that features multiple ways of getting to your destination. This can include by address, by intersection, by a personal address book or via a location selected directly from the map.
Step Four
Look for a system that gives you vocal as well as graphical directions. The systems that use a map and monitor include arrows that show you the direction of a turn and also indicate where your car is on the map in relation to the destination. Other systems use the head unit or radio to display the name of the street on which you are to make a turn or on which you are traveling. Both of these systems also give you verbal directions as you approach a turn.
Step Five
Select a system that includes point of interest data. Most GPS systems include locations of airports and other transportation services, ATMs and banks, restaurants, hotels and a host of other sites.
Step Six
Choose a system that offers updates of the point-of-interest data.
Step Seven
Consider installation time if you are working on a tight budget. Systems that rely on maps displayed on monitors are more complicated and take longer to install than other types of systems.
Tips & Warnings
Manufacturers of GPS car navigation systems warn that, if the product is installed by a consumer or an unauthorized dealer, the company will void the warranty.
Automotive Groups & WebRing Member Drive
I guess you can call this a member drive, we run a few automotive communities which require membership to become a part of. The only reason that we require membership approval is to avoid spam & spammers. It seems to work well, but it also limits how fast we can grow.Automotive Related Communities...
(all are looking for new membership):
Autos & Automotive - A Google Group
An automotive and motorsports group for discussing all things automotive related. Topics may include autos, automotive mechanics, auto shows, automobile racing, automotive parts, salvage, classic cars, collector cars & more. Pickup trucks, tractor trailer trucks and motorcycling are also allowed.
AutomotiveParts - A Google Group
Hunt for or offer automotive parts. Offer parts (new/used). Salvage yard auto parts search pools and automotive industry opportunites for new aftermarket automotive and high performance auto parts sellers from drop shippers and wholesalers.
Automotive - A WebRing
We are looking for people interested in joining our Automotive WebRing community at WebRing.com. WebRings a re great way to promote your website and help create new leads and business associations. If you have an automotive or motorsports related webpage, website, directory or blog, please join as a member of the Automotive WebRing.
Join Up!
All of the above groups and rings are great ways to increase your visibility, establish a comradery with other automotive enthusiasts and professionals, establish your expertise, help someone out, give something back and perhaps even create a new friend or even drum up business in the long run. The best part about such communities is that they can be fun. We try to keep them that way by eliminating the spam.
Of course, if you have cool parts to help others restore or upgrade their vehicles, like the front grille of the 1948 to 1952 Chevy pickup in good condition, or the Deluxe instrument panel for 1980 Chevy/GMC pickup trucks, we do want to see these types of posts in the AutomotiveParts group. That's actually why we created it. I have a 1980 Chevrolet C109 I am working on. The boss has a restored 1950 Chevrolet pickup. A friend and coworker of mine is working on a 1973 GMC pickup he is restoring. The shop is thinking about making the Chevy Gravel Dump Truck shown on this page a shop restoration project vehicle.We would love to hear about any old Autocars, Maxwell automobiles, Graham Brothers Trucks, or Henderson (Excelsior-Henderson) motorcycles out there that might be hidden in your barn looking to be restored. Heck, I am looking for an old car, pickup or motorcycle for my new restoration project, myself. Post any such finds in either the Autos & Automotive or AutomotiveParts Google Groups, or in the Automotive WebRing's forum.
If nothing else, it will be fun discussing our dream rides and hot rods. Heck, what do you have hidden away in your garage or barn? What are you working on? Join us just to brag about it a little. ;) Join in just to discuss automotive mechanics or tell us what your car/truck can do. We'd be glad to have anyone who won't spam us with unrelated advertising.
By the way, please be patient when you do apply for membership. I approve membership requests every business day I am here, Monday through Friday, but not on weekends or holidays, and I usually take at least one or two days off each week (but, not always) to devote to running my own businesses. But I will get to it! ;)
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Maserati Coupe
The Maserati Coupe follows hard on the heels of the Spyder released in September 2001 at the Frankfurt Motorshow. The Coup้ is scheduled for release at the Detroit Motor Show on January 7, 2002 and it will mark the return of Maserati to the US market at this its world premier. Powered by the same all new 4.2 litre naturally aspirated V8 that powers the Spyder, the introduction of the Coupe formally brings to an end the turbo-engined Maserati introduced by de Tomaso with the Bi Turbo series. Although similar in appearance to the 3200GT, the new Coupe is a completely new car and, apart from the obvious styling difference, is basically identical in specification to the Spyder which preceded it. The new Coupe thus adopts the new Maserati 6-speed manual rear mounted transaxle type gear box and the new option - the Cambiocorsa gearbox introduced with the Spyder. The gearbox is hydraulically operated with electronic management by levers behind the steering wheel, there is no clutch. Whilst front and rear track are the same as the 3200GT, the wheel base is 220mm shorter and weight is down slightly relative to the Spyder. The closely related 3200GT styling has a number of subtle differences - and some not so. As can be seen from the rear view of the car the distinctive 'boomerang' rear light treatment has been abandoned, the power bulge on the bonnet is also more pronounced.
Michael Schumacher
Michael Schumacher (pronounced /ˈmɪçaʔeːl ˈʃuːmaχɐ /, born January 3, 1969, in Hürth Hermülheim, Germany) is a former Formula One driver, and seven-time world champion. According to the official Formula One website, he is "statistically the greatest driver the sport has ever seen". He is the first German to win the Formula One World championship and is credited with popularising Formula One in Germany. In a 2006 FIA survey, Michael Schumacher was voted the most popular driver among Formula One fans.
After winning two championships with Benetton, Schumacher moved to Ferrari in 1996 and won five consecutive drivers' titles with them. Schumacher holds many records in Formula One, including most drivers' championships, race victories, fastest laps, pole positions, points scored and most races won in a single season. Schumacher is the first and only Formula One driver to have an entire season of podium finishes (2002). His driving sometimes created controversy: he was twice involved in collisions that determined the outcome of the world championship, most notably his disqualification from the 1997 championship for causing a collision with Jacques Villeneuve. On September 10, 2006, Schumacher announced his retirement as a driver.Schumacher is currently assisting Scuderia Ferrari CEO Jean Todt for the 2007 Formula One Season.
Off the track, Schumacher is an ambassador for UNESCO and a spokesman for driver safety. He has been involved in numerous humanitarian efforts throughout his life. He is the elder brother of current Toyota driver Ralf Schumacher.
After winning two championships with Benetton, Schumacher moved to Ferrari in 1996 and won five consecutive drivers' titles with them. Schumacher holds many records in Formula One, including most drivers' championships, race victories, fastest laps, pole positions, points scored and most races won in a single season. Schumacher is the first and only Formula One driver to have an entire season of podium finishes (2002). His driving sometimes created controversy: he was twice involved in collisions that determined the outcome of the world championship, most notably his disqualification from the 1997 championship for causing a collision with Jacques Villeneuve. On September 10, 2006, Schumacher announced his retirement as a driver.Schumacher is currently assisting Scuderia Ferrari CEO Jean Todt for the 2007 Formula One Season.
Off the track, Schumacher is an ambassador for UNESCO and a spokesman for driver safety. He has been involved in numerous humanitarian efforts throughout his life. He is the elder brother of current Toyota driver Ralf Schumacher.
Johny Herbert
Johnny Herbert's racing career began in 1974 at the tender age of 10. His parents, Bob and Jane, supported him from the start and spent all of their weekends at the kart races in the early days. Johnny's obvious speed and ability in a kart were evident right from the start to anyone who saw him race.
In his July 1998 column for F1 Racing magazine, Johnny looked back on his early years in karts with fond memories:
"Karting brings you out of yourself. I was very shy as a kid, and it brought me out of my shell. And you learn about racing and the behaviour necessary for a professional career at a much earlier age. It's essential experience.
In his July 1998 column for F1 Racing magazine, Johnny looked back on his early years in karts with fond memories:
"Karting brings you out of yourself. I was very shy as a kid, and it brought me out of my shell. And you learn about racing and the behaviour necessary for a professional career at a much earlier age. It's essential experience.
"When I first went to Buckmore [Park (an outdoor kart circuit in Kent)], I went as a boy scout, because of course it's a scouting venue as well. I'd got hooked on karting on holiday and pestered Dad until we got one, then I started running at Tilbury and Buckmore. I remember when it was just a speedbowl, not the sophisticated set-up it is now. I was about nine at the time! Scouts would turn up with funny, self-built karts, and I'd bring along my racing kart, a Sprint, and thrash them.
"Then I started driving a thing called a Tarantella, and through that I got to meet a guy called Bill Sisley, because he was selling spares. Dad and I met him at Surbiton and he started helping us out. Bits and bobs to begin with, then maybe an engine or two. I started driving one of his Kestrel karts.
"Bill has built up Buckmore, and he's one of those people I always recall fondly. He did so much to further my career. He helped me to win British Championships and to compete in the junior World Championship in Luxembourg, and he gave me the opportunities that helped me to leap up two or three performance levels. I ran sixth that time, until the chain came off with two laps to go.
"And, I suppose, Bill helped me to grow up, because as soon as I left school I went to work for him in Swanley. I used to cycle 30 miles there and 30 back each day, from home in Romford. It was quite funny; as this shy kid, I used to sell kart parts to people such as Andrea de Cesaris and Eddie Cheever, who'd often drop in. Eventually, I'd drive the van, build the fun karts Bill was producing, and, of course, race. It was Bill who got me my first Formula Ford drive too, in a Royale RP26 via Terry Gray's dad, Vic."
In 1978, wider recognition of Johnny's talent followed when he became British junior karting champion. Progressing through the ranks, he was British senior 135cc karting champion in 1979 and 1982. Johnny was also classified 18th in the World Championships at Kalmar, Sweden, in 1982.
Johnny moved up to Formula Ford at the end of 1983, and he crowned two full years in the highly competitive series with a triumphant display at the 1985 Formula Ford Festival at Brands Hatch, marking him out as one of Britain's fastest rising stars.
Johnny moved up to Formula Ford at the end of 1983, and he crowned two full years in the highly competitive series with a triumphant display at the 1985 Formula Ford Festival at Brands Hatch, marking him out as one of Britain's fastest rising stars.
"And so, after starting his heat the day before from the back of the grid with a 10sec penalty, 20-year-old Johnny Herbert crossed the line to wild cheers. It was no more than [his team] deserved. Never the ones to make excuses, always sporting and down to earth, the small team had taken on the Van Diemen hordes and beaten them.
"It was an emotional moment and every one of the appreciative crowd knew it. Once more the Formula Ford Festival and World Cup had produced superb entertainment. Brands Hatch last Sunday was all about Quest Racing and Johnny Herbert."
After one victory during a season of FF2000 in 1986, Johnny then graduated to Formula 3.
"It was an emotional moment and every one of the appreciative crowd knew it. Once more the Formula Ford Festival and World Cup had produced superb entertainment. Brands Hatch last Sunday was all about Quest Racing and Johnny Herbert."
After one victory during a season of FF2000 in 1986, Johnny then graduated to Formula 3.
History of Lotus Team
The Lotus Engineering company was founded by Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman on 1st January 1952, as a direct result of his success in building and racing trials cars. The company, based at Ketteringham Hall, Norfolk, has flourished over the years and is taking part in its 36th year of Grand Prix racing.
Although Team Lotus now competes solely in Formula One, there are few circuit formulae that the team has not dominated in past years. In the 1950s, Lotus sports cars dominated their class in the classic Le Mans 24-Hour race, while in the mid-1960s the USA's famous Indianapolis 500 race became another prize to fall to the team, along with three Grand Prix Constructor's World Championships. In the 1970s Team Lotus continued their winning ways, collecting another four Constructor's World Championships, the last with the revolutionary Type 79.
Colin Chapman had a profound influence in the design of the Grand Prix car in post war years, with Lotus initiating development programmes which led to innovative cars with features such as monocoque construction, four wheel drive, ground effect technology and Active Suspension. Lotus initiated the introduction of commercial sponsorship into Formula One in 1968 with its pioneering involvement wth Imperial Tobacco.
1958 Lotus entered first Grand Prix - Monaco
1960 First Formula One victory - Stirling Moss, Monaco
1961 2nd - World Manufacturer's ChampionshipFirst Team Lotus victory - Innes Ireland, US GP Watkins Glen
1962 2nd - World Manufacturer's Championship
1963 1st - World Driver's Championship - Jim Clark1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (first title)Jim Clark & Team Lotus came 2nd in the Indianapolis 500 at their first attempt in the race
1965 1st - World Driver's Championship - Jim Clark1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (second title)1st - Indianapolis 500 - Jim ClarkLotus Type 38 is first British car to win Indianapolis 500
1968 1st - World Driver's Championship - Graham Hill1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (third title)
1970 1st - World Driver's Championship - Jochen Rindt1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (fourth title)
1972 1st - World Driver's Championship - Emerson Fittipaldi1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (fifth title)
1973 1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (sixth title)
1978 1st - World Driver's Championship - Mario Andretti1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (seventh title)
1982 Tragic death of Colin Chapman coincides with Team Lotus' first test of its Active Suspension car. New management headed by Peter Warr takes over running of the team.
1983 Lotus races Active Suspension car.
1985 Ayrton Senna wins his first GP in Portugal, followed by a second win at Belgium.
1987 Lotus starts racing with the Active Suspension system and Senna wins two Grands Prix, in Monaco and the USA (the team's 79th GP victory).
1990 Peter Collins and Peter Wright take over the running of Team Lotus on 7th December. The team finish 9th in the FIA Constructors' World Championship.
1991 The reformed team uses a substantially modified version of the 1990 Type 102 - the Judd EV powered 102B. Debut of Mika Hakkinen, taking 5th place at San Marino.
1992 The team started the season with a new version of the Type 102B - the 102D with the Ford F1 V8 engine - in which Herbert and Hakkinen scored points early in the season.
The all new Type 107, designed by Chris Murphy, was announced in Spain and first raced at Imola. Lotus finished in a strong 5th place in the FIA Constructors' World Championship with 13 points.
1993 Johnny Herbert and Alessandro Zanardi took Team Lotus to 6th place in the FIA Constructors' World Championship, driving the Ford powered Type 107B. The injuries Alessandro sustained after his accident at Spa rendered him unable to compete in the last four Grands Prix, where he was replaced by Formula 3000 Championship runner-up, Portugal's Pedro Lamy.
1994 Johnny and Pedro start the season driving the Type 107C, which has been designed to incorporate the Mugen-Honda engine, prior to the debut of the Type 109. Alessandro Zanardi is retained as test and development driver.
Although Team Lotus now competes solely in Formula One, there are few circuit formulae that the team has not dominated in past years. In the 1950s, Lotus sports cars dominated their class in the classic Le Mans 24-Hour race, while in the mid-1960s the USA's famous Indianapolis 500 race became another prize to fall to the team, along with three Grand Prix Constructor's World Championships. In the 1970s Team Lotus continued their winning ways, collecting another four Constructor's World Championships, the last with the revolutionary Type 79.
Colin Chapman had a profound influence in the design of the Grand Prix car in post war years, with Lotus initiating development programmes which led to innovative cars with features such as monocoque construction, four wheel drive, ground effect technology and Active Suspension. Lotus initiated the introduction of commercial sponsorship into Formula One in 1968 with its pioneering involvement wth Imperial Tobacco.
1958 Lotus entered first Grand Prix - Monaco
1960 First Formula One victory - Stirling Moss, Monaco
1961 2nd - World Manufacturer's ChampionshipFirst Team Lotus victory - Innes Ireland, US GP Watkins Glen
1962 2nd - World Manufacturer's Championship
1963 1st - World Driver's Championship - Jim Clark1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (first title)Jim Clark & Team Lotus came 2nd in the Indianapolis 500 at their first attempt in the race
1965 1st - World Driver's Championship - Jim Clark1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (second title)1st - Indianapolis 500 - Jim ClarkLotus Type 38 is first British car to win Indianapolis 500
1968 1st - World Driver's Championship - Graham Hill1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (third title)
1970 1st - World Driver's Championship - Jochen Rindt1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (fourth title)
1972 1st - World Driver's Championship - Emerson Fittipaldi1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (fifth title)
1973 1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (sixth title)
1978 1st - World Driver's Championship - Mario Andretti1st - World Manufacturer's Championship (seventh title)
1982 Tragic death of Colin Chapman coincides with Team Lotus' first test of its Active Suspension car. New management headed by Peter Warr takes over running of the team.
1983 Lotus races Active Suspension car.
1985 Ayrton Senna wins his first GP in Portugal, followed by a second win at Belgium.
1987 Lotus starts racing with the Active Suspension system and Senna wins two Grands Prix, in Monaco and the USA (the team's 79th GP victory).
1990 Peter Collins and Peter Wright take over the running of Team Lotus on 7th December. The team finish 9th in the FIA Constructors' World Championship.
1991 The reformed team uses a substantially modified version of the 1990 Type 102 - the Judd EV powered 102B. Debut of Mika Hakkinen, taking 5th place at San Marino.
1992 The team started the season with a new version of the Type 102B - the 102D with the Ford F1 V8 engine - in which Herbert and Hakkinen scored points early in the season.
The all new Type 107, designed by Chris Murphy, was announced in Spain and first raced at Imola. Lotus finished in a strong 5th place in the FIA Constructors' World Championship with 13 points.
1993 Johnny Herbert and Alessandro Zanardi took Team Lotus to 6th place in the FIA Constructors' World Championship, driving the Ford powered Type 107B. The injuries Alessandro sustained after his accident at Spa rendered him unable to compete in the last four Grands Prix, where he was replaced by Formula 3000 Championship runner-up, Portugal's Pedro Lamy.
1994 Johnny and Pedro start the season driving the Type 107C, which has been designed to incorporate the Mugen-Honda engine, prior to the debut of the Type 109. Alessandro Zanardi is retained as test and development driver.
Biography of August Horch
August Horch (October 12, 1868 - February 3, 1951) was a German engineer and automobile pioneer, the founder of the manufacturing firm that would become Audi.
He was born in Winningen, Moselle. He was educated in Mittweida.
He worked for Karl Benz from 1896 before founding A. Horch & Cie in November 1899 in Ehrenfeld, Cologne, Germany. The first Horch automobile was built in 1901. The company moved to Reichenbach in 1902 and Zwickau in 1904. Horch left the company in 1909 after a dispute and set up in competition in Zwickau. His new firm was initially called Horch Automobil-Werke GmbH, but following a legal dispute over the Horch name he was oblidged to change the company name. (The court decided that Horch was a registered trademark on behalf of August Horch's former partners and August Horch was not entitled to use it any more.) Consequently, Horch renamed his company to Audi Automobilwerke GmbH in 1910, Audi being the Latinization of Horch.
In August 1928 the Danish engineer Jørgen Skafte Rasmussen of DKW acquired a majority holding in Audiwerke. In June 1932 Audi, DKW, Horch and Wanderer merged to form Auto Union AG, the new company's logo was four interlinked rings, one for each of the founder companies. Horch was on the supervisory board of Auto Union.
History of Audi (1920s)
With the Treaty of Versailles marking the end of World War I the automobile industry in Germany changed its focus from the production of military vehicles back to vehicles for the civilian population.
Despite post-war economic problems it was clear the car was here to stay - between 1924 and 1928 the number of cars in Germany grew from 420,000 to 1,200,000. As the car became more popular it became more accessible to more of society. The 1920's marked the first time a car was built and targeted at the 'man in the street'. Key brands in this growth - soon to become a strong alliance - made a major impact on the world:
Despite post-war economic problems it was clear the car was here to stay - between 1924 and 1928 the number of cars in Germany grew from 420,000 to 1,200,000. As the car became more popular it became more accessible to more of society. The 1920's marked the first time a car was built and targeted at the 'man in the street'. Key brands in this growth - soon to become a strong alliance - made a major impact on the world:
A post-war rethink by Audi's Technical Director Hermann Lange led to a completely new design principle for the 'new Audi'. AUDI was one of few medium sized companies and despite the quality of the cars there simply weren't enough being produced.
In 1928 AUDI Werke AG was acquired by JS Rasmussen, the head of the DKW empire.
A decision was made that AUDI should develop cars of a simpler design which were cheaper to build and used less ambitious constructional features. Rasmussen gave a brief to designers to build a small car powered by a DKW motorcycle engine, with swing axle suspension, front wheel drive and a wooden body - to be developed in six weeks! Amazingly the brief was completed and the car went on to sell over 250,000 units, making it Germany's most popular car at the time.
In 1928 AUDI Werke AG was acquired by JS Rasmussen, the head of the DKW empire.
A decision was made that AUDI should develop cars of a simpler design which were cheaper to build and used less ambitious constructional features. Rasmussen gave a brief to designers to build a small car powered by a DKW motorcycle engine, with swing axle suspension, front wheel drive and a wooden body - to be developed in six weeks! Amazingly the brief was completed and the car went on to sell over 250,000 units, making it Germany's most popular car at the time.
Throughout this period AUDI was a leading light in the concept of aero-dynamic design and streamlined bodywork. Concepts developed in the 1920's are still valid today.
iAuto Vehicle Classifieds Software Version 4.0 Released
We've finally released our new version of iAuto. I'll simply post an ad that we're promoting it with, and if you are looking for additional details and specifics of the new version, you're always welcome to visit our website:
We'll be discussing other details related to the new software functionality and the ways you can use it for your business needs.
iAuto is a cutting edge PHP vehicle classifieds script. It is a perfect solution for websites that sell any vehicles for land, air, or water. It comes bundled with a fresh car make/model database.
Key features of iAuto include an innovative search engine that allows visitors to search and sort by any field. A ZIP/postal code and radius search capability is provided based on the US ZIP code database. Import of postal codes for other countries is also possible with the existing import utility.
Our new version features a fully editable template-based look and feel. The ability to present listing data is limited only by your HTML coding skills.
One important addition of iAuto is the ability to list multiple listing types (advertise cars, boats, and airplanes on one site) and to create common or custom fields for each type.
iAuto also features user groups that can segregate users between individuals or corporate clients, with custom menus and profiles for each group.
New version offers a multitude of ways to make money with iAuto. You can choose between a pay-per-ad or subscription plans and further add pay-per-feature packages to charge for extra features such as pictures or videos.
Three payment gateways are built into iAuto: 2Checkout, Paypal (with card payment processing capabilities) and Authorize.NET merchant account gateway.
Two iAuto packages are currently offered starting from as low as $219, with FREE TRIAL and online DEMO.
Free lifetime upgrades and frequent functionality improvements make it a worthwhile purchase, giving you the ability to upgrade your website to respond to emerging market trends!
We'll be discussing other details related to the new software functionality and the ways you can use it for your business needs.
Saturday, October 6, 2007
Get the Best Price and Cheapest Loan
You need the right information and a savvy negotiating strategy to get the lowest price, and cheapest loan, on a new car and truck.
The salesperson hopes you'll go shopping without knowing how much the dealership paid for the car you want, how much other consumers are paying for similar models, whether any discounts are available and how much you should pay for a loan.
Without that you'll wind up paying thousands more than you need to. Almost guaranteed.
That's why our 6 step plan for driving the best deal, can make you a smarter, more confident buyer. Here's how it works:
Step 1. Pick out the car or truck you want to buy.
Talk to friends. Read reviews. (We can help by directing you to the three best choices among many different types of vehicles from subcompacts to pickups.) Get a close-up look at the most promising possibilities close. Take your favorites out for a test drive.
But don't even start negotiating.
You need three things to do your homework:
A copy of the window sticker for the car you want to buy.
The sales tax rate for your purchase.
A list of all the taxable and non-taxable fees you'll have to pay to close the deal.
Step 2. Find out how much the car should cost.
Start at Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out what you should pay for the car.
Use information from the window sticker to enter all the information you're asked about engines, accessories and even the color, into their price calculators. When you're done, Edmunds or Kelley will provide you with three prices:
MSRP. This should be very close to the suggested retail price on the sticker. If it is, then you know you've put in all of the right information.
Invoice price. This is the price the dealer paid for the car.
Average transaction price. Edmunds calls this "What Others Are Paying." Kelley refers to it as "The New Car Blue Book Value." It will usually be somewhere between the retail price and invoice price.
Now use our links to see if there are any rebates or low-cost financing available on your car.
Step 3. Line-up a loan.
Our most recent, weekly survey of major lenders shows the average annual interest rate for a:
Five-year loan is 7.72%.
Four-year loan is 7.67%.
Three-year loan is 7.60%.
Unless you have below average credit, there's no reason to pay more than this. Indeed, you should qualify for a lower rate.
Our auto loan comparison charts show lenders offering 60-month loans for as little as 6.25% across most of the country.
Pick a lender offering one of the best rates. You can usually apply on-line and receive a check in a few days.
That rate will almost always be better than the dealer's finance officer can arrange through the lenders he or she works with, unless, of course, you choose a discounted loan from the automaker.
Lining-up a lender before you buy will also protect you from one of auto-buying's most expense mistakes, finance charge markups.
Step 4. Decide which discount to take.
If your have a choice between a rebate and low-cost financing, you need to pick the discount that will save the most money.
Let's say you're going to borrow $18,000 over 60 months and have a choice of two loans: 6.25% from a bank you found on our site or a discount rate of 2.9% from the automaker's finance company, like Ford Credit or GMAC.
If you took the bank loan, your payments would be $350 a month and you'd pay $3,005 in interest over the life of the loan. If you took the discount financing you'd pay $323 a month and $1,358 in interest over the life of the loan.
Now look at the difference between the total costs of the two loans. In our example it's $1,647. If the rebate is more, take the rebate. If not, take the cheap financing, which will have to be arranged through the dealership.
Our low-interest financing calculator allows you to compare any amounts, any rates, quickly and easily.
Step 5. Settle on a price you're willing to pay and make sure you can afford it.
Your goal should be to pay somewhere between the invoice price and the average transaction price. Being a smart consumer should allow you to pay less than the average consumer.
If, for example, the invoice price is $22,000 and the average transaction price is $22,600, then you should set a goal of paying between $22,200 and $22,400, not counting any rebates.
If a rebate's available -- and you decided to take it in Step 4 -- plan on having that amount deducted from the final negotiated price of the car. Don't allow the rebate to enter into your negotiations.
Now you know how much you're going to pay, how much you have for a down payment and how much you're going to finance and what that loan will cost.
The final step is to use our auto loan calculator to get a good idea of what your monthly payments will be. Just enter the price you expect to pay, the loan rate and term, and the tax rate and fees the dealer provided
If you can afford the payments, you're ready to go back showroom.
Step 6. Make an offer.
Former car salesmen and consumer advocates say you'll have the most leverage if you:
Buy at the end of the month when salespeople are trying to make quotas and the dealership is striving to meet its budget for revenue and profits.
Show up an hour before closing on Friday, when everyone is anxious to start the weekend.
Tell the salesperson you're ready to buy today and ask how much he wants for the car.
The salesperson will probably consult with the dealership's sales manager. If he or she comes back with an offer below sticker price, thatâ??s a good sign.
Respond with a counteroffer that's only about $100 above the invoice price. Sometimes the salesperson will resist taking your bid back to the sales manager, saying that it's just too low.
Always remember that your salesperson and the sales manager are professional negotiators, working as a team, to get you to pay as much as possible for their product. They want to see if they can get you to raise your offer without having to make a counteroffer of their own.
Don't budge. Insist the salesperson take your offer to the sales manager.
After you've gone back and forth several times, you should have reached the price you decided to pay back in Step 5.
If the sales manager is willing to accept that, you've got a deal. If not, that's your cue to graciously end the negotiations and try another dealer.
By Mike Sante
Interest.com Managing Editor
The salesperson hopes you'll go shopping without knowing how much the dealership paid for the car you want, how much other consumers are paying for similar models, whether any discounts are available and how much you should pay for a loan.
Without that you'll wind up paying thousands more than you need to. Almost guaranteed.
That's why our 6 step plan for driving the best deal, can make you a smarter, more confident buyer. Here's how it works:
Step 1. Pick out the car or truck you want to buy.
Talk to friends. Read reviews. (We can help by directing you to the three best choices among many different types of vehicles from subcompacts to pickups.) Get a close-up look at the most promising possibilities close. Take your favorites out for a test drive.
But don't even start negotiating.
You need three things to do your homework:
A copy of the window sticker for the car you want to buy.
The sales tax rate for your purchase.
A list of all the taxable and non-taxable fees you'll have to pay to close the deal.
Step 2. Find out how much the car should cost.
Start at Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out what you should pay for the car.
Use information from the window sticker to enter all the information you're asked about engines, accessories and even the color, into their price calculators. When you're done, Edmunds or Kelley will provide you with three prices:
MSRP. This should be very close to the suggested retail price on the sticker. If it is, then you know you've put in all of the right information.
Invoice price. This is the price the dealer paid for the car.
Average transaction price. Edmunds calls this "What Others Are Paying." Kelley refers to it as "The New Car Blue Book Value." It will usually be somewhere between the retail price and invoice price.
Now use our links to see if there are any rebates or low-cost financing available on your car.
Step 3. Line-up a loan.
Our most recent, weekly survey of major lenders shows the average annual interest rate for a:
Five-year loan is 7.72%.
Four-year loan is 7.67%.
Three-year loan is 7.60%.
Unless you have below average credit, there's no reason to pay more than this. Indeed, you should qualify for a lower rate.
Our auto loan comparison charts show lenders offering 60-month loans for as little as 6.25% across most of the country.
Pick a lender offering one of the best rates. You can usually apply on-line and receive a check in a few days.
That rate will almost always be better than the dealer's finance officer can arrange through the lenders he or she works with, unless, of course, you choose a discounted loan from the automaker.
Lining-up a lender before you buy will also protect you from one of auto-buying's most expense mistakes, finance charge markups.
Step 4. Decide which discount to take.
If your have a choice between a rebate and low-cost financing, you need to pick the discount that will save the most money.
Let's say you're going to borrow $18,000 over 60 months and have a choice of two loans: 6.25% from a bank you found on our site or a discount rate of 2.9% from the automaker's finance company, like Ford Credit or GMAC.
If you took the bank loan, your payments would be $350 a month and you'd pay $3,005 in interest over the life of the loan. If you took the discount financing you'd pay $323 a month and $1,358 in interest over the life of the loan.
Now look at the difference between the total costs of the two loans. In our example it's $1,647. If the rebate is more, take the rebate. If not, take the cheap financing, which will have to be arranged through the dealership.
Our low-interest financing calculator allows you to compare any amounts, any rates, quickly and easily.
Step 5. Settle on a price you're willing to pay and make sure you can afford it.
Your goal should be to pay somewhere between the invoice price and the average transaction price. Being a smart consumer should allow you to pay less than the average consumer.
If, for example, the invoice price is $22,000 and the average transaction price is $22,600, then you should set a goal of paying between $22,200 and $22,400, not counting any rebates.
If a rebate's available -- and you decided to take it in Step 4 -- plan on having that amount deducted from the final negotiated price of the car. Don't allow the rebate to enter into your negotiations.
Now you know how much you're going to pay, how much you have for a down payment and how much you're going to finance and what that loan will cost.
The final step is to use our auto loan calculator to get a good idea of what your monthly payments will be. Just enter the price you expect to pay, the loan rate and term, and the tax rate and fees the dealer provided
If you can afford the payments, you're ready to go back showroom.
Step 6. Make an offer.
Former car salesmen and consumer advocates say you'll have the most leverage if you:
Buy at the end of the month when salespeople are trying to make quotas and the dealership is striving to meet its budget for revenue and profits.
Show up an hour before closing on Friday, when everyone is anxious to start the weekend.
Tell the salesperson you're ready to buy today and ask how much he wants for the car.
The salesperson will probably consult with the dealership's sales manager. If he or she comes back with an offer below sticker price, thatâ??s a good sign.
Respond with a counteroffer that's only about $100 above the invoice price. Sometimes the salesperson will resist taking your bid back to the sales manager, saying that it's just too low.
Always remember that your salesperson and the sales manager are professional negotiators, working as a team, to get you to pay as much as possible for their product. They want to see if they can get you to raise your offer without having to make a counteroffer of their own.
Don't budge. Insist the salesperson take your offer to the sales manager.
After you've gone back and forth several times, you should have reached the price you decided to pay back in Step 5.
If the sales manager is willing to accept that, you've got a deal. If not, that's your cue to graciously end the negotiations and try another dealer.
By Mike Sante
Interest.com Managing Editor
Know How Much It's Worth Before You Buy
We suggest you to use information from the window sticker to put all the specifics about the engine, accessories and even the color, into their calculators. After that follow with three prices:
- MSRP. This should be very close to the suggested retail price on the sticker. If it is, then you know you've put in all of the right information.
- Invoice price. This is the price the dealer paid for the car.
- Average transaction price. Sometimes we call this "What Others Are Paying." or "The New Car Blue Book Value." It will usually be somewhere between the retail price and invoice price.
How to Buy a Great Used Car
Buying used can be a great deal if you play it smart.
Most three- or four-year old cars and trucks can be surprisingly reliable because automakers have done so much to improve the durability of every model.
They cost a lot less, too -- an average of $14,925, or just a little more than half as much as the typical new vehicle.
But buying used can be an expensive and tragic game of rush-in roulette if you're too hasty.
You don't want to overpay, get a vehicle that's been abused, crashed or dunked in a flood, dried out and shipped off to be sold to the gullible.
Let our 10 smart moves increase the chances your "new" used vehicle will be a great purchase:
Smart Move 1. Although the reliability of all vehicles has improved over the last decade, some are better than others. Take the time to check out the model you are considering.
Two sources of reliability information are Consumer Reports magazine's April auto issue, available in the library or through the Consumer Reports Web site, and J.D. Power and Associates, an independent research company that polls buyers about their cars and trucks.
Think twice before buying a model that has significantly more problems than average, especially if major mechanical components such as the engine or transmission are prone to breakdowns.
Smart Move 2. Insist on taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for an examination, something any reputable seller should allow. If the seller refuses, walk away.
Make sure the mechanic examining the vehicle is familiar with the brand and has some kind of certification of expertise from a group such as the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence or ASE. This checkup could cost $100 to $200 (get the price first), but that's cheap compared to finding out too late about serious problems.
Smart Move 3. Check the history of the vehicle through a service such as Experian's AutoCheck or Carfax. For about $20 you can use the vehicle identification number (VIN) to see in which state the vehicle was purchased and whether it has been registered in other states. Such checks are not perfect but they may alert you if the vehicle was in a serious crash or other mishap such as a flood.
If you are buying from a dealer, insist that the dealer provide you with such a report for free and carefully compare the VIN number on the vehicle with that on the report to make sure they are the same.
Smart Move 4. If saving money is your priority, then you should try to buy from an individual rather than a new car dealer.
When you've found one you like, use Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out how much it's worth.
Their calculators will ask for lots of information about the car or truck, from the make and model to its mileage and optional equipment. In the end you'll be given three values. The lowest is what the car would be worth as a trade in, or being sold by an individual, or by a new-car dealer.
The "private party" price is always lower than the dealer price because there's more risk. You won't get a warranty (unless some of the original factory warranty remains) and some naughty people sell cosmetically reconditioned wrecks to bargain hunters just like you.
Smart Move 5. If reliability is most important to you, and you are willing to pay extra for the peace of mind it provides, go to a new-car dealer and buy a certified used vehicle.
Certified vehicles are supposed to undergo rigorous inspection and testing by dealership mechanics before being resold. They typically have fewer miles and cosmetic problems too, and come with some type of warranty, though such agreements can vary considerably.
But that will raise the purchase price by an average of $1,680, according to J.D. Power and Associates.
Smart move 6. Check for a warranty. The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to place a "Buyer's Guide" on the vehicle that tells whether the vehicle has a warranty and what that warranty covers.
If there' no warranty, the "Buyer's Guide" must be marked "as is." That means you take your chances.
Get any promises in writing. Verbal promises don't carry any weight in a dispute. Pull out paper and pencil anytime a salesperson says, "We'll fix anything that goes wrong."
Some newer vehicles may have part of the original manufacturer's warranty in effect. This will be particularly true when '07 models begin to be resold because several automakers began offering longer warranties this model year.
Just remember, parts of that warranty could be voided if the previous owner didn't do all the proper maintenance, so pay attention to the next recommendation.
Smart move 7. Ask the dealer or private owners for service records. Ask the dealer if the original owner bought the vehicle at the dealership. Then, ask if the owner had it serviced at the dealership. If the answer is yes, ask for the service records.
If the dealer balks claiming there is a privacy issue, ask him or her to contact the previous owner and get permission, or to simply cross out the previous owner's name and address before showing the records to you. If the dealer refuses or a private owner says he doesn't have the records, go elsewhere.
Smart move 8. Don't rush into a deal. You do not have three days to return a vehicle and get your money back. That's a common misperception. To see if your state gives you any special rights as a used-car buyer go to state attorney general's web site and check under consumer protection.
Smart move 9. If you're buying from a new-car dealership, check its reputation with the Better Business Bureau and your state's attorney general. Ask friends and family if they know anybody who has had a good -- or bad -- experience.
Be particularly wary of independent used-car lots. It's even more important to verify their reputation before you buy.
Smart move 10. Safety is important. Favor cars and trucks that offer such lifesaving features as anti-lock brakes, side-curtain air bags and electronic stability control, which automatically tries to correct for a skid.
Also, check out how well the vehicle did in crash tests. The most demanding tests available to the public are done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Think twice before buying a model that scored poorly on two or more of the institute's tests.
Dealers that sell and service the brand of vehicle you're considering can use the vehicle identification number to determine if your car or truck has ever been recalled for a safety defect, and if it the repairs were made.
This isn't a deal breaker. Automakers must fix safety problems for free, no matter who owns the vehicle or how long ago the recall was issued. But you should know what repairs are needed, and be prepared to get them done, before you buy.
By Chris and Cheryl Jensen
Interest.com Contributing Editors
Most three- or four-year old cars and trucks can be surprisingly reliable because automakers have done so much to improve the durability of every model.
They cost a lot less, too -- an average of $14,925, or just a little more than half as much as the typical new vehicle.
But buying used can be an expensive and tragic game of rush-in roulette if you're too hasty.
You don't want to overpay, get a vehicle that's been abused, crashed or dunked in a flood, dried out and shipped off to be sold to the gullible.
Let our 10 smart moves increase the chances your "new" used vehicle will be a great purchase:
Smart Move 1. Although the reliability of all vehicles has improved over the last decade, some are better than others. Take the time to check out the model you are considering.
Two sources of reliability information are Consumer Reports magazine's April auto issue, available in the library or through the Consumer Reports Web site, and J.D. Power and Associates, an independent research company that polls buyers about their cars and trucks.
Think twice before buying a model that has significantly more problems than average, especially if major mechanical components such as the engine or transmission are prone to breakdowns.
Smart Move 2. Insist on taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for an examination, something any reputable seller should allow. If the seller refuses, walk away.
Make sure the mechanic examining the vehicle is familiar with the brand and has some kind of certification of expertise from a group such as the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence or ASE. This checkup could cost $100 to $200 (get the price first), but that's cheap compared to finding out too late about serious problems.
Smart Move 3. Check the history of the vehicle through a service such as Experian's AutoCheck or Carfax. For about $20 you can use the vehicle identification number (VIN) to see in which state the vehicle was purchased and whether it has been registered in other states. Such checks are not perfect but they may alert you if the vehicle was in a serious crash or other mishap such as a flood.
If you are buying from a dealer, insist that the dealer provide you with such a report for free and carefully compare the VIN number on the vehicle with that on the report to make sure they are the same.
Smart Move 4. If saving money is your priority, then you should try to buy from an individual rather than a new car dealer.
When you've found one you like, use Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out how much it's worth.
Their calculators will ask for lots of information about the car or truck, from the make and model to its mileage and optional equipment. In the end you'll be given three values. The lowest is what the car would be worth as a trade in, or being sold by an individual, or by a new-car dealer.
The "private party" price is always lower than the dealer price because there's more risk. You won't get a warranty (unless some of the original factory warranty remains) and some naughty people sell cosmetically reconditioned wrecks to bargain hunters just like you.
Smart Move 5. If reliability is most important to you, and you are willing to pay extra for the peace of mind it provides, go to a new-car dealer and buy a certified used vehicle.
Certified vehicles are supposed to undergo rigorous inspection and testing by dealership mechanics before being resold. They typically have fewer miles and cosmetic problems too, and come with some type of warranty, though such agreements can vary considerably.
But that will raise the purchase price by an average of $1,680, according to J.D. Power and Associates.
Smart move 6. Check for a warranty. The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to place a "Buyer's Guide" on the vehicle that tells whether the vehicle has a warranty and what that warranty covers.
If there' no warranty, the "Buyer's Guide" must be marked "as is." That means you take your chances.
Get any promises in writing. Verbal promises don't carry any weight in a dispute. Pull out paper and pencil anytime a salesperson says, "We'll fix anything that goes wrong."
Some newer vehicles may have part of the original manufacturer's warranty in effect. This will be particularly true when '07 models begin to be resold because several automakers began offering longer warranties this model year.
Just remember, parts of that warranty could be voided if the previous owner didn't do all the proper maintenance, so pay attention to the next recommendation.
Smart move 7. Ask the dealer or private owners for service records. Ask the dealer if the original owner bought the vehicle at the dealership. Then, ask if the owner had it serviced at the dealership. If the answer is yes, ask for the service records.
If the dealer balks claiming there is a privacy issue, ask him or her to contact the previous owner and get permission, or to simply cross out the previous owner's name and address before showing the records to you. If the dealer refuses or a private owner says he doesn't have the records, go elsewhere.
Smart move 8. Don't rush into a deal. You do not have three days to return a vehicle and get your money back. That's a common misperception. To see if your state gives you any special rights as a used-car buyer go to state attorney general's web site and check under consumer protection.
Smart move 9. If you're buying from a new-car dealership, check its reputation with the Better Business Bureau and your state's attorney general. Ask friends and family if they know anybody who has had a good -- or bad -- experience.
Be particularly wary of independent used-car lots. It's even more important to verify their reputation before you buy.
Smart move 10. Safety is important. Favor cars and trucks that offer such lifesaving features as anti-lock brakes, side-curtain air bags and electronic stability control, which automatically tries to correct for a skid.
Also, check out how well the vehicle did in crash tests. The most demanding tests available to the public are done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Think twice before buying a model that scored poorly on two or more of the institute's tests.
Dealers that sell and service the brand of vehicle you're considering can use the vehicle identification number to determine if your car or truck has ever been recalled for a safety defect, and if it the repairs were made.
This isn't a deal breaker. Automakers must fix safety problems for free, no matter who owns the vehicle or how long ago the recall was issued. But you should know what repairs are needed, and be prepared to get them done, before you buy.
By Chris and Cheryl Jensen
Interest.com Contributing Editors
How to Understand the Basics of Car Maintenance
Sometimes you may have heard it said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." That is the beginning of many problems. Phases one and two of maintenance require "fixing" what isn't broken.
Steps
1. The most obvious phase of maintenance is the repair function. Very simply stated, this means, "if it breaks, fix it." This is actually the third phase and means exactly what it says. It is a last resort and should arise only at infrequent intervals.
2. Phase one is systematic daily maintenance. The machine operator is usually responsible for this part. He/she simply cleans the equipment, observing anything out of the ordinary and reporting it to the maintenance department. This allows replacement of parts about to malfunction thus preventing chaining of problems.
3. Phase two is the regularly scheduled maintenance to include changing of fluids, thorough cleaning of parts not normally seen by the operator and a more detailed inspection for parts about to malfunction. This would include parts that are bent or broken, to include any possible cracks, obvious wear and signs of lack of lubrication.
4. It can readily be seen that proper performance of phases one and two will greatly reduce the occurrence of phase three, breakdown repair.
5. The greatest incentive for performing phases one and two regularly is that machine breakdown will invariably occur when the machine is used, and most often when it is being used most heavily. A machine that is idle simply doesn't break down.
Steps
1. The most obvious phase of maintenance is the repair function. Very simply stated, this means, "if it breaks, fix it." This is actually the third phase and means exactly what it says. It is a last resort and should arise only at infrequent intervals.
2. Phase one is systematic daily maintenance. The machine operator is usually responsible for this part. He/she simply cleans the equipment, observing anything out of the ordinary and reporting it to the maintenance department. This allows replacement of parts about to malfunction thus preventing chaining of problems.
3. Phase two is the regularly scheduled maintenance to include changing of fluids, thorough cleaning of parts not normally seen by the operator and a more detailed inspection for parts about to malfunction. This would include parts that are bent or broken, to include any possible cracks, obvious wear and signs of lack of lubrication.
4. It can readily be seen that proper performance of phases one and two will greatly reduce the occurrence of phase three, breakdown repair.
5. The greatest incentive for performing phases one and two regularly is that machine breakdown will invariably occur when the machine is used, and most often when it is being used most heavily. A machine that is idle simply doesn't break down.
Tips & Warning of How to Change the Oil in Your Car
Tips
Warnings
- Never, ever work under a car that is up on a jack. Jack the car up, then put it on a jackstand.
- Be aware of the heat of some parts of the car that you'll be working around. No one likes to get burned.
- Be sure you have the drain plug in and filter attached before adding oil and starting the car.
- This how-to is not meant for all cars, and certainly shouldn't be your only source of information. Always consult your owner's manual for manufacturer's recommendations when determining your maintenance schedule.
- Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission if you put oil in it.
- If you don't use the correct wrench on the drain plug bolt you run the risk of "rounding it off" (destroying the head of the bolt).
- Watch out, the oil may be very hot if you have been running the engine. Burned flesh can result.
- Do NOT over tighten the new filter, always tighten it by hand and not with a wrench.
Things You'll Need
- Oil (check your owner's manual for specific weight and quantity needed)
- Socket wrench (for foreign cars you will likely need a metric set)
- Oil filter (contact your local auto parts store for specific model of filter)
- Oil filter socket (if applicable)
- A way to get your car off the ground (ramps or a jack & jackstands work best)
Something to catch the used oil in - Oil rags or paper towel (optional)
- Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require screwdrivers.
- Washer fluid (optional) Since most lube-places replace washer fluid, it's likely a good time to do the same.
How to Change the Oil in Your Car
Regular oil changes are critical to maintaining your vehicle. Over time the oil in your car breaks down and loses some of its lubricating properties. It can become contaminated with things like dirt, water, and fuel that reduce its effectiveness. Plan to change your motor oil on the cycle recommended in your car's manual. For some vehicles, it's 3,000 miles or three months, but for many vehicles, it's 5,000 miles. However, you may want to do it more often if you've been driving in very hot and/or dusty conditions or make very frequent short trips.
Steps
1. Start off by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands (Note: many cars with a high ground clearance don't need to be raised, and you can just shimmy on under. This saves time and is safer; if the car isn't up it can't fall down!) The car should have been running for about 5 minutes to get the oil warmed up.
2. Locate the drain plug for the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. The bolt size will vary from car to car, is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyota and Lexus are 14mm, all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguar’s are 30mm, older Volvo’s are 25mm, BMW's are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm all others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles it will be necessary to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pick up's and SUV’s will have steel skid plates. After locating the bolt, loosen it, but do not remove it from the pan.
3. Position whatever you are "catching" the oil with under the plug. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large.
4. Continue removing the bolt. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff. (TIP: If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.)
5. While your oil is draining, pop the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier. This step is working better when done before working under the car.
6. Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position on, and can be on the front, back and side of engines. Some cars use paper cartridge filters such as Mercedes, BMW, and very few other cars including some Toyotas, Oldsmobile’s and newer Volvos. All 4 cylinder Toyota’s and Lexus’s use the same filter which will be located in the front of the engine below the exhaust manifold. The same is true of all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines, they use the same filter and it is located beneath the exhaust manifold with very little room to access it. BMW’s all have paper cartridge filters located in an aluminum container towards the front of the engine and require a 13mm bolt to be removed to take the cap of the container. Older Volvo’s have the same filter located on the passenger side of the engine block; it will be difficult to get the filter out due to parts in your way. Newer Volvo’s have paper cartridge filters located on a corner of their oil pan in a black plastic container that requires a large socket to remove, be careful as oil will spill out because the cup only covers half the filter. Four cylinder Honda’s will have their filter on the back of the block above the left CV shaft. Mercedes will have their paper cartridge filters in one of 3 places in order of most common to least common. First in the front of the engine slightly to the right, second back behind the engine next to the fire wall about two inches below the top of the valve cover, and some times down to the left below the exhaust manifold. All Mercedes filters are inside an aluminum canister with a black plastic top requiring a large socket. Also make sure to pre fill oil filters with the threads facing up as the engine is expecting the filter to remain full of oil. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. If you can't get it off by hand use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying, it will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it.
7. Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Lubricate the gasket on the new oil filter with oil and carefully screw on the new filter while being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters they will always come with at least one o-ring some times as many as four different ones, make sure to replace all of them in insure that they will not leak.
8. Add oil to the car at the fill hole up to the specs in the owner's manual. You don't want to overfill!
9. Older Toyota Corolla’s will take a little over 3 quarts, newer Corolla’s will take exactly 4, Camry's will take 3 7/8, and all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines will take 5 quarts. 4 cylinder Honda’s and Acura’s will take 4 to 4 1/2 quarts. Otherwise add four quarts and check the dip stick and add more until it reads full. Now start the car and run the engine for about 10-15 seconds then check the oil level again and add oil to the full line. On some cars such as a V8 Mercedes it can take as much as 8 1/2 quarts. Also be aware that some new Mercedes do not come with dipsticks so be sure to measure how much oil you took out and put back the same amount (normally 8 quarts). Finally make sure to use good oil not the cheapest stuff you can find it really makes a difference. Some Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and BMW will require either Mobil 1 synthetic or Castrol Syntec synthetic oil.
10. Replace the fill cap and close the hood.
11. Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the Parking Brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.
12. Make sure to change the oil on a regular cycle, as recommended by your car's specifications. 3,000 miles is a good benchmark for conventional motor oil (with 6,000 miles being the standard for full synthetic), but for many vehicles, the duration between conventional oil changes may be longer.
Steps
1. Start off by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands (Note: many cars with a high ground clearance don't need to be raised, and you can just shimmy on under. This saves time and is safer; if the car isn't up it can't fall down!) The car should have been running for about 5 minutes to get the oil warmed up.
2. Locate the drain plug for the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. The bolt size will vary from car to car, is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyota and Lexus are 14mm, all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguar’s are 30mm, older Volvo’s are 25mm, BMW's are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm all others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles it will be necessary to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pick up's and SUV’s will have steel skid plates. After locating the bolt, loosen it, but do not remove it from the pan.
3. Position whatever you are "catching" the oil with under the plug. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large.
4. Continue removing the bolt. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff. (TIP: If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.)
5. While your oil is draining, pop the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier. This step is working better when done before working under the car.
6. Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position on, and can be on the front, back and side of engines. Some cars use paper cartridge filters such as Mercedes, BMW, and very few other cars including some Toyotas, Oldsmobile’s and newer Volvos. All 4 cylinder Toyota’s and Lexus’s use the same filter which will be located in the front of the engine below the exhaust manifold. The same is true of all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines, they use the same filter and it is located beneath the exhaust manifold with very little room to access it. BMW’s all have paper cartridge filters located in an aluminum container towards the front of the engine and require a 13mm bolt to be removed to take the cap of the container. Older Volvo’s have the same filter located on the passenger side of the engine block; it will be difficult to get the filter out due to parts in your way. Newer Volvo’s have paper cartridge filters located on a corner of their oil pan in a black plastic container that requires a large socket to remove, be careful as oil will spill out because the cup only covers half the filter. Four cylinder Honda’s will have their filter on the back of the block above the left CV shaft. Mercedes will have their paper cartridge filters in one of 3 places in order of most common to least common. First in the front of the engine slightly to the right, second back behind the engine next to the fire wall about two inches below the top of the valve cover, and some times down to the left below the exhaust manifold. All Mercedes filters are inside an aluminum canister with a black plastic top requiring a large socket. Also make sure to pre fill oil filters with the threads facing up as the engine is expecting the filter to remain full of oil. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. If you can't get it off by hand use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying, it will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it.
7. Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Lubricate the gasket on the new oil filter with oil and carefully screw on the new filter while being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters they will always come with at least one o-ring some times as many as four different ones, make sure to replace all of them in insure that they will not leak.
8. Add oil to the car at the fill hole up to the specs in the owner's manual. You don't want to overfill!
9. Older Toyota Corolla’s will take a little over 3 quarts, newer Corolla’s will take exactly 4, Camry's will take 3 7/8, and all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines will take 5 quarts. 4 cylinder Honda’s and Acura’s will take 4 to 4 1/2 quarts. Otherwise add four quarts and check the dip stick and add more until it reads full. Now start the car and run the engine for about 10-15 seconds then check the oil level again and add oil to the full line. On some cars such as a V8 Mercedes it can take as much as 8 1/2 quarts. Also be aware that some new Mercedes do not come with dipsticks so be sure to measure how much oil you took out and put back the same amount (normally 8 quarts). Finally make sure to use good oil not the cheapest stuff you can find it really makes a difference. Some Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and BMW will require either Mobil 1 synthetic or Castrol Syntec synthetic oil.
10. Replace the fill cap and close the hood.
11. Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the Parking Brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.
12. Make sure to change the oil on a regular cycle, as recommended by your car's specifications. 3,000 miles is a good benchmark for conventional motor oil (with 6,000 miles being the standard for full synthetic), but for many vehicles, the duration between conventional oil changes may be longer.
Biography of Colin Chapman
Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman (19 May 1928 - 16 December 1982) was an influential British designer, inventor, and builder in the automotive industry. In 1952 he founded the sports car company Lotus Cars. He studied structural engineering at University College London where he joined the University Air Squadron and learned to fly. After graduating in 1948, he briefly joined the Royal Air Force. His knowledge of the latest aeronautical engineering techniques would prove vital towards achieving the major automotive technical advances he is remembered for. Under his direction, Team Lotus won seven Formula One World Championships, plus the Indianapolis 500 in the United States, between 1962 and 1978. The production side of Lotus Cars has built tens of thousands of relatively affordable, cutting edge sports cars. Lotus is one of but a handful of British performance car builders still in business after the industrial decline of the 1970s. Chapman suffered a heart attack in 1982 and died, aged 54.
In 1948 Chapman started with the Mk1, a modified Austin 7, which he entered privately into local racing events. He named the car "Lotus"; he never confirmed the reason but one (of several) theories is that it was after his then girlfriend (later wife) Hazel, who he nicknamed "Lotus blossom". With prize money won he developed the Lotus Mk2. With continuing success on through the Lotus 6, he began to sell kits of these cars. Over 100 of the Lotus 6 kits were sold through 1956. It was with the Lotus 7 in 1957 that things really took off, and indeed Caterham Cars still manufacture a version of that car today – the Caterham 7; there have been over 90 different Lotus 7 clones, replicas, and derivatives offered to the public by a variety of makers.
In the 1950s, Chapman progressed through the motor racing formulae, designing and building a series of racing cars, sometimes to the point of being in limited production they were so successful and highly sought after, until he arrived in Formula 1. Along with John Cooper, he revolutionised the premier motor sport. Their small, lightweight mid-engined vehicles gave away much in terms of power, but superior handling meant their competing cars often beat the all-conquering front engined Ferraris and Maseratis. Eventually, with legendary driver Jim Clark at the wheel of his race cars, Team Lotus came to appear as though they could win whenever they pleased. With Clark driving the legendary Lotus 25 Team Lotus won its first F1 World Championship in 1963. It was Clark, driving a Lotus 38 at the Indianapolis 500 in 1965, who drove the first ever mid-engined car to victory at the fabled "Brickyard." Certainly, Jim Clark would have won many more races were it not for his untimely death in 1968 while racing a Formula 2 car at Hockenheimring. (The accident was most likely caused by a rear tire failure, though the exact cause has never been known.) Clark and Chapman had become particularly close and Clark's death devastated Chapman, who publicly stated that he had lost his best friend.
Among a number of legendary automotive figures who have been Lotus employees over the years were Mike Costin and Keith Duckworth, founders of Cosworth.
Chapman, who came from relatively humble roots, was also a businessman who introduced major advertising sponsorship into auto racing; beginning the process which changed Formula One from rich gentlemen's pastime, to multi-million pound high technology enterprise. It was Chapman who in 1966 persuaded the Ford Motor Company to sponsor Cosworth's development of what would become the legendary DFV race engine. Shortly before his death he became involved in John De Lorean's De Lorean Motor Company troubled venture to manufacture sports cars in Northern Ireland. The full extent of his involvement has never been proved, but it is believed he would have been investigated for possible complicity in the manipulation of government loans during the development of the De Lorean car. Fred Bushell, Chapman's colleague and close confidante, pleaded guilty in 1992 to "Conspiring with the late Colin Chapman and others to defraud the De Lorean Motor Company" and was sentenced to four years in prison. De Lorean himself was tried on drug-trafficking charges and acquitted.
Biography of Enzo Ferrari
Enzo Anselmo Ferrari (February 18, 1898 - August 14, 1988) was the founder of the Scuderia Ferrari Grand Prix motor racing team, and subsequently of the Ferrari car manufacturer.
Born in Modena, Enzo Ferrari grew up with little formal education but a strong desire to race cars. During World War I he was a mule-skinner in the Italian Army. His father, Alfredo, died in 1916 as a result of a widespread Italian flu outbreak. Enzo became sick himself and was consequently discharged from Italian service. Upon returning home he found that the family firm had collapsed. Having no other job prospects he sought unsuccessfully to find work at Fiat and eventually settled for a job at a smaller car company called CMN redesigning used truck bodies into small passenger cars. He took up racing in 1919 on the CMN team, but had little initial success.
He left CMN in 1920 to work at Alfa Romeo and racing their cars in local races he had more success. In 1923, racing in Ravenna, he acquired the Prancing Horse badge which decorated the fuselage of Francesco Baracca's (Italy's leading ace of WWI) SPAD fighter, given from his mother, taken from the wreckage of the plane after his mysterious death. This icon would have to wait until 1932 to be plastered on a racing car. In 1924 he won the Coppa Acerbo at Pescara. His successes in local races encouraged Alfa to offer him a chance of much more prestigious competition and he was lauded by Mussolini. Ferrari turned this opportunity down and in something of a funk he did not race again until 1927 and even then his racing career was mostly over. He continued to work directly for Alfa Romeo until 1929 before starting Scuderia Ferrari as the racing team for Alfa.
Ferrari managed the development of the factory Alfa cars, and built up a team of over forty drivers, including Giuseppe Campari and Tazio Nuvolari. Ferrari himself continued racing until the birth of his first son in 1932 (Alfredo Ferrari, known as Dino, who died in 1956).
The support of Alfa Romeo lasted until 1933 when financial constraints made Alfa withdraw. Only at the intervention of Pirelli did Ferrari receive any cars at all. Despite the quality of the Scuderia drivers the company won few victories (1935 in Germany by Nuvolari was a notable exception). Auto Union and Mercedes dominated the era.
The support of Alfa Romeo lasted until 1933 when financial constraints made Alfa withdraw. Only at the intervention of Pirelli did Ferrari receive any cars at all. Despite the quality of the Scuderia drivers the company won few victories (1935 in Germany by Nuvolari was a notable exception). Auto Union and Mercedes dominated the era.
In 1937 Alfa took control of its racing efforts again, reducing Ferrari to Director of Sports under Alfa's engineering director. Ferrari soon left, but a contract clause restricted him from racing or designing for four years.
He set up Auto-Avio Costruzioni, a company supplying parts to other racing teams. But in the Mille Miglia of 1940 the company manufactured two cars to compete, driven by Alberto Ascari and Lotario Rangoni. During World War II his firm was involved in war production and following bombing relocated from Modena to Maranello. It was not until after World War II that Ferrari sought to shed his fascist reputation and make cars bearing his name, founding today's Ferrari S.p. A. in 1945.
The first open-wheeled race was in Turin in 1948 and the first victory came later in the year in Lago di Garda. Ferrari participated in the Formula 1 World Championship since its introduction in 1950 but the first victory was not until the British Grand Prix of 1951. The first championship came in 1952-53, when the Formula One season was raced with Formula Two cars. The company also sold production sports cars in order to finance the racing endeavours not only in Grand Prix but also in events such as the Mille Miglia and Le Mans. Indeed many of the firm's greatest victories came at Le Mans (14 victories, including six in a row 1960-65) rather than in Grand Prix, certainly the company was more involved there than in Formula One during the 1950s and 1960s despite the successes of Juan-Manuel Fangio (1956), Mike Hawthorn (1958), Phil Hill (1961) and John Surtees (1964).
In the 1960s the problems of reduced demand and inadequate financing forced Ferrari to allow Fiat to take a stake in the company. Ferrari had offered Ford the opportunity to buy the firm in 1963 for US$18 million but, late in negotiations, Ferrari withdrew. This decision triggered the Ford Motor Company's decision to launch a serious European sports car racing program. The company became joint-stock and Fiat took a small share in 1965 and then in 1969 they increased their holding to 50% of the company. (In 1988 Fiat's holding was increased to 90%).
Ferrari remained managing director until 1971. Despite stepping down he remained an influence over the firm until his death. The input of Fiat took some time to have effect. It was not until 1975 with Niki Lauda that the firm won any championships — the skill of the driver and the ability of the engine overcoming the deficiencies of the chassis and aerodynamics. But after those successes and the promise of Jody Scheckter title in 1979, the company's Formula One championship hopes fell into the doldrums. 1982 opened with a strong car, the 126C2, world-class drivers, and promising results in the early races.
However, Gilles Villeneuve was killed in the 126C2 in May, and teammate Didier Pironi had his career cut short in a violent end over end flip on the misty backstraight at Hockenheim in August. Pironi was leading the driver's championship at the time; he would lose the lead as he sat out the remaining races. The team would not see championship glory again during Ferrari's lifetime.
Enzo Ferrari died in Modena in 1988 at the age of 90 at the beginning of the dominance of the McLaren Honda combination. The only race which McLaren did not win in 1988 was the Italian Grand Prix - this was held just weeks after Enzo's death, and, fittingly, the result was a 1-2 finish for Ferrari, with Gerhard Berger leading home Michele Alboreto. After Enzo's death, the Scuderia Ferrari team has had further success, notably with Michael Schumacher from 1996-2006. He witnessed the launch of the one of the greatest road cars the Ferrari F40 shortly before his death, which was dedicated as a symbol of his achievements. In 2003 the first car to be named after him was launched in the Enzo Ferrari.
Made a Cavaliere del Lavoro in 1952, to add to his honours of Cavaliere and Commendatore in the 1920s, Enzo also received a number of honorary degrees, the Hammarskjöld Prize in 1962, the Columbus Prize in 1965, and the De Gasperi Award in 1987. In 1994, he was posthumously inducted into the International Motorsports Hall of Fame. Enzo famously used purple ink in his fountain pen, although the reason for this remains unclear.
After the death of his son, Alfredo "Dino" Ferrari, Enzo wore sunglasses just about every day to honor his son.
History of Ferrari
Enzo Ferrari was born on February 18, 1898 near Modena, Italy. When he was 10 his father took him to an automobile race in Bologna. After attending a number of other races, he decided he wanted to become a racing car driver.
While working at a small carmaker involved with converting war surplus, Ferrari took up racing. In 1919 he finished ninth at the Targa Florio. He ended up landing a job with Alfa Romeo and drove a modified production car in the 1920 Targa Florio. Ferrario managed to finish second.
In 1923 while racing at the Circuit of Sivocci at Ravenna he was approached by Count Enrico and Countess Paolina Baracca, the parents of the heroic Italian pilot Francesco Baracca. Francesco was known as the Italian ace of aces. He died on Mount Montello during the war. His parents gave Ferrari their son's squadron badge, which was the famous prancing horse on a yellow shield.
Enzo Ferrari was connected with Alfa Romeo for many years, however, he built only a few sports cars bearing his name and his famous prancing horse badge. In 1929 Enzo formed the Scuderia Ferrari with the aim of organizing racing for members. The Scuderia Ferrari team competed in 22 events and scored 8 victories and several good placings.
In 1940 Enzo Ferrari left Alfa Romeo and started a new company Auto-Avio Costruzioni Ferrari. During World War II the Ferrari workshop moved from Modena to Maranello. The workshop became a victim of the war in 1944 - it was leveled by bombs. A year after the war in 1946 the shop was rebuilt and work began on the first ever Ferrari motorcar, the 125 Sport. This car started a grand tradition of winning for Ferrari. Since it's first race in 1947, Ferrari's have had over 5,000 successes on race tracks around the globe.
In 1969 Enzo Ferrari sold 50% of Ferrari's share capital to the Fiat group. That figure grew to 90% in 1988. Enzo Ferrari died at the age of 90 in Modena on August 14, 1988.
History of Lotus (1950s)
Colin Chapman (1928 - 1981), started his business as a racing car tuner. When he was still studying engineering in university, he bought an old Austin 7 and tuned it to race. Perhaps he was a man born to win, his first attempt rewarded by winning a few small races. In 1951, while he had graduated, his third car, Mk 3, stormed the 750cc formula class. Unlike other cars in this class, it used spaceframe tubes in construction so that rigidity and lightness out-performed others. Many other teams queued to buy this car and the Lotus Engineering Company was established in 1952. Since then Chapman began his full time automotive engineering career.
Obviously, Chapman is a pure racing car engineer heart and bone. To fund his ambitious racing project, he started building road cars. In 1957, the Mk 6 race car was transformed to the first-ever Lotus road car - Mk 7. The car is renowned for lightness and good handling. It is still building by Caterham today under license. At the same year he unveiled the Elite which employed a revolutionary composite monocoque body.
Obviously, Chapman is a pure racing car engineer heart and bone. To fund his ambitious racing project, he started building road cars. In 1957, the Mk 6 race car was transformed to the first-ever Lotus road car - Mk 7. The car is renowned for lightness and good handling. It is still building by Caterham today under license. At the same year he unveiled the Elite which employed a revolutionary composite monocoque body.
History of Maserati
On December 14, 1914 a new company was born in Bologna, Societเ Anonima Officine Alfieri Maserati. The Maserati brothers: Carlo (1881), Bindo (1883), Alfieri (1887), Mario (1890), Ettore (1894) and Ernesto (1898) with exception of Mario, who turned his creative vocation towards painting, they all became involved in engineering. Alfieri decided to start a company and rented a garage on the Via de Pepoli in Bologna. Not long after that, his brothers Ettore and Ernesto came working in the workshop.
In 1926 they developed and built their first car, a two-seater racecar. The engine was an 8 cylinder in line with a 1.5 litre supercharged displacement the engine developed a 120 bhp at 5300 rpm. Above the radiator a badge presented a trident that evoked bologna's famous statue of Neptune. This badge was designed by Mario. On its debut in the Targa Florio on April 25, 1926 it became first in its class.
In 1929 Baconin Borzacchini set a new 3.5 litre world speed record in a Maserati V4, a very extreme car with a V16 engine. This engine was actually two tipo 26 engines coupled together.
On march the 3rd 1932, Alfieri died on the age of 44 year. From that time Bindo got into business with his two brothers.
In 1933 Maserati was the first European manufactory to introduce hydraulic brakes on his race cars. That year Maserati achieved three grand prix victories, the grand prix of France, Belgium and Nice.
Maserati was taken over by the Orsi family in 1937. The brothers got a contract to work for another 10 years.
Wilbur Shaw won the Indianapolis 500 with a Maserati 8CTF in 1939. Maserati is the only Italian constructor to win this legendary race until today. By the end of the year Maserati moved to its present home on Viale Ciro Menotti in Modena.
For the second time Wilbur Shaw won the Indianapolis 500 in 1940. During world war II Maserati produced batteries, sparkplugs and trucks.
The first sports car was launched during the Geneva motor show in march 1947. It was the A6 which was designed by Pininfarina.
1957 Maserati wins the world tittle with the 250F and Juan Manual Fangio behind the steering wheel. At the end of the race season Maserati officially retires from racing. From that moment on they were concentrating on road cars. The 3500 GT was the first mass-produced gran tourismo. Carrozzeria Touring from Milan was responsible for the bodywork.
In 1959 they build a car for the Shah of Persia, that was the 5000 GT Touring version. This car was followed by several other models, as the Sebring ( 63-72 ), Quatroporte and Mistral ( 63-70 ), the Mexico ( 66-72 ), Ghibli ( 66-70 ) and the Indy ( 69-76 ).
The Orsi family sold Maserati to Citro๋n in 1968. They were primarily interested in acquiring its engine know how For their SM coup้. In this period the Bora ( 71-79 ), Merak ( 72-83 ) and the Quatroporte II were born. There were only five Quatroportes II build.
The Bertone styled Khamsin saw the light in 1973. This was a very sharply cut, streamlined coup้. Sales were going bad by the oil crisis.
Citro๋n pulled out on 23rd of May 1975, and Alejandro De Tomaso and GEPI came on 8th of August to rescue.
In the spring of '76 Maserati already had a "new" coup้, derived from the De Tomaso Longschamps. At the Turin motor show the Quatroporte III was presented.
From 1981 until 1993 they produced several Biturbo models, 6 and 8 cylinder, coupes, spyders and saloons. On the 19th of May 1993 Fiat auto purchased the complete share package. In July 1998 Ferrari acquires the control of Maserati, and the management closed the factory to modernize the production.
At the salon de L'automobile in Paris they introduced the very successful 3200 GT, the first car produced under the Ferrari management.
By the end of 2000 the factory introduced the Officine Alfieri Maserati program, to individualize your 3200 GT and ItalDesign presented a new prototype, the Buran.There are no plans to produce this car.
In 1926 they developed and built their first car, a two-seater racecar. The engine was an 8 cylinder in line with a 1.5 litre supercharged displacement the engine developed a 120 bhp at 5300 rpm. Above the radiator a badge presented a trident that evoked bologna's famous statue of Neptune. This badge was designed by Mario. On its debut in the Targa Florio on April 25, 1926 it became first in its class.
In 1929 Baconin Borzacchini set a new 3.5 litre world speed record in a Maserati V4, a very extreme car with a V16 engine. This engine was actually two tipo 26 engines coupled together.
On march the 3rd 1932, Alfieri died on the age of 44 year. From that time Bindo got into business with his two brothers.
In 1933 Maserati was the first European manufactory to introduce hydraulic brakes on his race cars. That year Maserati achieved three grand prix victories, the grand prix of France, Belgium and Nice.
Maserati was taken over by the Orsi family in 1937. The brothers got a contract to work for another 10 years.
Wilbur Shaw won the Indianapolis 500 with a Maserati 8CTF in 1939. Maserati is the only Italian constructor to win this legendary race until today. By the end of the year Maserati moved to its present home on Viale Ciro Menotti in Modena.
For the second time Wilbur Shaw won the Indianapolis 500 in 1940. During world war II Maserati produced batteries, sparkplugs and trucks.
The first sports car was launched during the Geneva motor show in march 1947. It was the A6 which was designed by Pininfarina.
1957 Maserati wins the world tittle with the 250F and Juan Manual Fangio behind the steering wheel. At the end of the race season Maserati officially retires from racing. From that moment on they were concentrating on road cars. The 3500 GT was the first mass-produced gran tourismo. Carrozzeria Touring from Milan was responsible for the bodywork.
In 1959 they build a car for the Shah of Persia, that was the 5000 GT Touring version. This car was followed by several other models, as the Sebring ( 63-72 ), Quatroporte and Mistral ( 63-70 ), the Mexico ( 66-72 ), Ghibli ( 66-70 ) and the Indy ( 69-76 ).
The Orsi family sold Maserati to Citro๋n in 1968. They were primarily interested in acquiring its engine know how For their SM coup้. In this period the Bora ( 71-79 ), Merak ( 72-83 ) and the Quatroporte II were born. There were only five Quatroportes II build.
The Bertone styled Khamsin saw the light in 1973. This was a very sharply cut, streamlined coup้. Sales were going bad by the oil crisis.
Citro๋n pulled out on 23rd of May 1975, and Alejandro De Tomaso and GEPI came on 8th of August to rescue.
In the spring of '76 Maserati already had a "new" coup้, derived from the De Tomaso Longschamps. At the Turin motor show the Quatroporte III was presented.
From 1981 until 1993 they produced several Biturbo models, 6 and 8 cylinder, coupes, spyders and saloons. On the 19th of May 1993 Fiat auto purchased the complete share package. In July 1998 Ferrari acquires the control of Maserati, and the management closed the factory to modernize the production.
At the salon de L'automobile in Paris they introduced the very successful 3200 GT, the first car produced under the Ferrari management.
By the end of 2000 the factory introduced the Officine Alfieri Maserati program, to individualize your 3200 GT and ItalDesign presented a new prototype, the Buran.There are no plans to produce this car.
Tip & Warning of How to Fix Cars Air Condition
Tips
1. If you suspect bad wiring, most compressors have a wire leading to the electric clutch. Find the connector in the middle of that wire, and unplug it. Take a length of wire and run it from the compressor's wire to the plus (+) side of your battery. If you hear a loud CLACK, the electric clutch is fine and you should check the car's wiring and fuses. If you get nothing, the electric clutch is bad and the compressor will have to be replaced. Ideally, if you can do this test while the car is running, you can see if the hub spins. Take care to keep fingers and loose clothes away from moving pulleys and belts. That would rule out a clutch that actuates properly but then slips so badly it won't generate pressure.
2. If your system is empty and you're refilling it, and have access to a small vacuum pump (like what they'd use in a lab or shop), it's best to suck all the air out of the system before filling it. Air contains moisture, and moisture is bad in AC systems because it corrodes things.
3. Your system will have a light oil in it. If you vent off any refrigerant, be prepared to wipe some oil off things nearby.
4. Another possible replacement refrigerant is HC12a which is used quite a bit more in Europe. It performs better than R-134a or R12. It is more flammable. HC12a is more eco friendly than R12 or R134a. Venting HC12a is not believed to cause environmental damage. Must be ordered on the internet as local shops do not seem to stock it. The issue is that shops will not work on a car that has other regrigerants in it. Special equipment is needed for each type of refrigerant's recovery. Standard R12 or R134a is a safer choice.
Warnings
1. Be extremely cautious about converting your old R-12 system to R-134a. The R-134a conversion kits sold at Auto Parts stores and even WalMart, are called "Black Death Kits" by some AC repairmen. Frequently, the new R-134a refrigerant will not circulate the R-12 oil and you will burn up your compressor. The R-12 mineral oil has chlorine contaminants that will destroy the R-134a PAG or POE special oil. The only way to reliably convert from R-12 to R-134a is to remove the compressor and flush out all the old oil with the new type of oil; then replace the old Receiver-Dryer or Accumulator with a new one; then flush out all the lines, the evaporator, and the condensor with special cleaner then vacuum to a steady vacuum; and finally charge with 70-80%, (by weight) of the original R-12 weight, with R-134a; and expect poorer cooling ability. It is much easier to keep the old R-12 system running with R-12 that is readily available via ebay.
2. Venting refrigerant -- even R-134a -- is illegal in the United States, so act accordingly.
3. NEVER connect refrigerant cans, oil or leak-detector cans to the "high pressure side" of the system. This is often marked with H or HIGH, or a red connector cap. Cans can explode, and that would hurt.
4. Stay away from major leaks of refrigerant. As it vents it will get cold enough to freeze your skin.
5. Look out for moving fan blades and fan belts!
6. HC12 is a hydrocarbon, usually some mix of butane or propane. It will explode with an ignition source. Light up a cigarette if you have an evaporator leak and your car becomes a bomb. Professionals don't use it because of this very reason.
1. If you suspect bad wiring, most compressors have a wire leading to the electric clutch. Find the connector in the middle of that wire, and unplug it. Take a length of wire and run it from the compressor's wire to the plus (+) side of your battery. If you hear a loud CLACK, the electric clutch is fine and you should check the car's wiring and fuses. If you get nothing, the electric clutch is bad and the compressor will have to be replaced. Ideally, if you can do this test while the car is running, you can see if the hub spins. Take care to keep fingers and loose clothes away from moving pulleys and belts. That would rule out a clutch that actuates properly but then slips so badly it won't generate pressure.
2. If your system is empty and you're refilling it, and have access to a small vacuum pump (like what they'd use in a lab or shop), it's best to suck all the air out of the system before filling it. Air contains moisture, and moisture is bad in AC systems because it corrodes things.
3. Your system will have a light oil in it. If you vent off any refrigerant, be prepared to wipe some oil off things nearby.
4. Another possible replacement refrigerant is HC12a which is used quite a bit more in Europe. It performs better than R-134a or R12. It is more flammable. HC12a is more eco friendly than R12 or R134a. Venting HC12a is not believed to cause environmental damage. Must be ordered on the internet as local shops do not seem to stock it. The issue is that shops will not work on a car that has other regrigerants in it. Special equipment is needed for each type of refrigerant's recovery. Standard R12 or R134a is a safer choice.
Warnings
1. Be extremely cautious about converting your old R-12 system to R-134a. The R-134a conversion kits sold at Auto Parts stores and even WalMart, are called "Black Death Kits" by some AC repairmen. Frequently, the new R-134a refrigerant will not circulate the R-12 oil and you will burn up your compressor. The R-12 mineral oil has chlorine contaminants that will destroy the R-134a PAG or POE special oil. The only way to reliably convert from R-12 to R-134a is to remove the compressor and flush out all the old oil with the new type of oil; then replace the old Receiver-Dryer or Accumulator with a new one; then flush out all the lines, the evaporator, and the condensor with special cleaner then vacuum to a steady vacuum; and finally charge with 70-80%, (by weight) of the original R-12 weight, with R-134a; and expect poorer cooling ability. It is much easier to keep the old R-12 system running with R-12 that is readily available via ebay.
2. Venting refrigerant -- even R-134a -- is illegal in the United States, so act accordingly.
3. NEVER connect refrigerant cans, oil or leak-detector cans to the "high pressure side" of the system. This is often marked with H or HIGH, or a red connector cap. Cans can explode, and that would hurt.
4. Stay away from major leaks of refrigerant. As it vents it will get cold enough to freeze your skin.
5. Look out for moving fan blades and fan belts!
6. HC12 is a hydrocarbon, usually some mix of butane or propane. It will explode with an ignition source. Light up a cigarette if you have an evaporator leak and your car becomes a bomb. Professionals don't use it because of this very reason.
How to Fix Cars Air Conditioning
Steps
1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
2. Become familiar with the five major components to auto air conditioning:
1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
2. Become familiar with the five major components to auto air conditioning:
- the compressor, which compresses the refrigerant in the system (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a)
- the refrigerant, which carries the heat
- the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
- the expansion valve, which isn't really a valve at all but more like a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow and atomize it
- the dryer/evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
3.Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives of a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
4. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
5. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
6. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
7. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill!
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
New Automotive & Motorsports Directory
The webmaster at Syd's Eastside Auto Parts has been working pretty hard to establish a new automotive & motorsports related dedicated directory for the past few weeks. Its finally ready! The Automotive SEARCH Directory not only functions as a means of submitting your automotive and/or motorsports related websites, blogs and directories as a static directory listing advertising your business, but also functions as a means for the public to submit any auto/motorsport related URL as a resource candidate for the Automotive SEARCH Network volunteer editors to consider as an authorized link resource for our URL pool of automotive/motorsports from which our search engine draws its results.
Although the directory only represents a smaller part of the Automotive SEARCH Network, it is a significant one because it will allow any user to suggest an automotive or motorsport related web resource. Previously, the only way to submit such a web resource to use in the search results was to become an authorized editor for the Automotive SEARCH Network. Now, automotive enthusiasts and businesses from all over can submit their website and if accepted, can enjoy the targeted traffic that the Automotive SEARCH Network was designed to provide.
Although we are still accepting requests for becoming a volunteer editor, the Automotive SEARCH Network Directory allows us to expand our resource pool of automotive & motorsports URLs without requiring site owners and webmasters to take on any significant obligations as a volunteer editor.
In fact, the Automotive SEARCH Directory now provides a high profile directory platform from which to provide targeted advertising to the automotive industry, auto entusiasts, car clubs and motorsports professionals. Listings are very reasonably priced although a free reciprocal link exchange is also available.
However, the directory does allow visitors to submit listings into multiple categories, as long as the submitted resource is relevant to that category. The directory software and its administration also takes significant steps to avoid spam submissions.
We expect great things for and from the Automotive SEARCH Network in the future. Keep your eyes open on this domain by bookmarking the website once you get there! Be sure to submit your automotive/motorsport/motorcycle/truck web resource(s) while you are there, too.
The Automotive SEARCH Directory is brought to you as a joint sponsorship cooperative between Syd's Eastside Auto Parts and Diesel Rebuild Parts.com.
Although the directory only represents a smaller part of the Automotive SEARCH Network, it is a significant one because it will allow any user to suggest an automotive or motorsport related web resource. Previously, the only way to submit such a web resource to use in the search results was to become an authorized editor for the Automotive SEARCH Network. Now, automotive enthusiasts and businesses from all over can submit their website and if accepted, can enjoy the targeted traffic that the Automotive SEARCH Network was designed to provide.
Although we are still accepting requests for becoming a volunteer editor, the Automotive SEARCH Network Directory allows us to expand our resource pool of automotive & motorsports URLs without requiring site owners and webmasters to take on any significant obligations as a volunteer editor.
In fact, the Automotive SEARCH Directory now provides a high profile directory platform from which to provide targeted advertising to the automotive industry, auto entusiasts, car clubs and motorsports professionals. Listings are very reasonably priced although a free reciprocal link exchange is also available.
However, the directory does allow visitors to submit listings into multiple categories, as long as the submitted resource is relevant to that category. The directory software and its administration also takes significant steps to avoid spam submissions.
We expect great things for and from the Automotive SEARCH Network in the future. Keep your eyes open on this domain by bookmarking the website once you get there! Be sure to submit your automotive/motorsport/motorcycle/truck web resource(s) while you are there, too.
The Automotive SEARCH Directory is brought to you as a joint sponsorship cooperative between Syd's Eastside Auto Parts and Diesel Rebuild Parts.com.
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