You need the right information and a savvy negotiating strategy to get the lowest price, and cheapest loan, on a new car and truck.
The salesperson hopes you'll go shopping without knowing how much the dealership paid for the car you want, how much other consumers are paying for similar models, whether any discounts are available and how much you should pay for a loan.
Without that you'll wind up paying thousands more than you need to. Almost guaranteed.
That's why our 6 step plan for driving the best deal, can make you a smarter, more confident buyer. Here's how it works:
Step 1. Pick out the car or truck you want to buy.
Talk to friends. Read reviews. (We can help by directing you to the three best choices among many different types of vehicles from subcompacts to pickups.) Get a close-up look at the most promising possibilities close. Take your favorites out for a test drive.
But don't even start negotiating.
You need three things to do your homework:
A copy of the window sticker for the car you want to buy.
The sales tax rate for your purchase.
A list of all the taxable and non-taxable fees you'll have to pay to close the deal.
Step 2. Find out how much the car should cost.
Start at Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out what you should pay for the car.
Use information from the window sticker to enter all the information you're asked about engines, accessories and even the color, into their price calculators. When you're done, Edmunds or Kelley will provide you with three prices:
MSRP. This should be very close to the suggested retail price on the sticker. If it is, then you know you've put in all of the right information.
Invoice price. This is the price the dealer paid for the car.
Average transaction price. Edmunds calls this "What Others Are Paying." Kelley refers to it as "The New Car Blue Book Value." It will usually be somewhere between the retail price and invoice price.
Now use our links to see if there are any rebates or low-cost financing available on your car.
Step 3. Line-up a loan.
Our most recent, weekly survey of major lenders shows the average annual interest rate for a:
Five-year loan is 7.72%.
Four-year loan is 7.67%.
Three-year loan is 7.60%.
Unless you have below average credit, there's no reason to pay more than this. Indeed, you should qualify for a lower rate.
Our auto loan comparison charts show lenders offering 60-month loans for as little as 6.25% across most of the country.
Pick a lender offering one of the best rates. You can usually apply on-line and receive a check in a few days.
That rate will almost always be better than the dealer's finance officer can arrange through the lenders he or she works with, unless, of course, you choose a discounted loan from the automaker.
Lining-up a lender before you buy will also protect you from one of auto-buying's most expense mistakes, finance charge markups.
Step 4. Decide which discount to take.
If your have a choice between a rebate and low-cost financing, you need to pick the discount that will save the most money.
Let's say you're going to borrow $18,000 over 60 months and have a choice of two loans: 6.25% from a bank you found on our site or a discount rate of 2.9% from the automaker's finance company, like Ford Credit or GMAC.
If you took the bank loan, your payments would be $350 a month and you'd pay $3,005 in interest over the life of the loan. If you took the discount financing you'd pay $323 a month and $1,358 in interest over the life of the loan.
Now look at the difference between the total costs of the two loans. In our example it's $1,647. If the rebate is more, take the rebate. If not, take the cheap financing, which will have to be arranged through the dealership.
Our low-interest financing calculator allows you to compare any amounts, any rates, quickly and easily.
Step 5. Settle on a price you're willing to pay and make sure you can afford it.
Your goal should be to pay somewhere between the invoice price and the average transaction price. Being a smart consumer should allow you to pay less than the average consumer.
If, for example, the invoice price is $22,000 and the average transaction price is $22,600, then you should set a goal of paying between $22,200 and $22,400, not counting any rebates.
If a rebate's available -- and you decided to take it in Step 4 -- plan on having that amount deducted from the final negotiated price of the car. Don't allow the rebate to enter into your negotiations.
Now you know how much you're going to pay, how much you have for a down payment and how much you're going to finance and what that loan will cost.
The final step is to use our auto loan calculator to get a good idea of what your monthly payments will be. Just enter the price you expect to pay, the loan rate and term, and the tax rate and fees the dealer provided
If you can afford the payments, you're ready to go back showroom.
Step 6. Make an offer.
Former car salesmen and consumer advocates say you'll have the most leverage if you:
Buy at the end of the month when salespeople are trying to make quotas and the dealership is striving to meet its budget for revenue and profits.
Show up an hour before closing on Friday, when everyone is anxious to start the weekend.
Tell the salesperson you're ready to buy today and ask how much he wants for the car.
The salesperson will probably consult with the dealership's sales manager. If he or she comes back with an offer below sticker price, thatâ??s a good sign.
Respond with a counteroffer that's only about $100 above the invoice price. Sometimes the salesperson will resist taking your bid back to the sales manager, saying that it's just too low.
Always remember that your salesperson and the sales manager are professional negotiators, working as a team, to get you to pay as much as possible for their product. They want to see if they can get you to raise your offer without having to make a counteroffer of their own.
Don't budge. Insist the salesperson take your offer to the sales manager.
After you've gone back and forth several times, you should have reached the price you decided to pay back in Step 5.
If the sales manager is willing to accept that, you've got a deal. If not, that's your cue to graciously end the negotiations and try another dealer.
By Mike Sante
Interest.com Managing Editor
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Saturday, October 6, 2007
Know How Much It's Worth Before You Buy
We suggest you to use information from the window sticker to put all the specifics about the engine, accessories and even the color, into their calculators. After that follow with three prices:
- MSRP. This should be very close to the suggested retail price on the sticker. If it is, then you know you've put in all of the right information.
- Invoice price. This is the price the dealer paid for the car.
- Average transaction price. Sometimes we call this "What Others Are Paying." or "The New Car Blue Book Value." It will usually be somewhere between the retail price and invoice price.
How to Buy a Great Used Car
Buying used can be a great deal if you play it smart.
Most three- or four-year old cars and trucks can be surprisingly reliable because automakers have done so much to improve the durability of every model.
They cost a lot less, too -- an average of $14,925, or just a little more than half as much as the typical new vehicle.
But buying used can be an expensive and tragic game of rush-in roulette if you're too hasty.
You don't want to overpay, get a vehicle that's been abused, crashed or dunked in a flood, dried out and shipped off to be sold to the gullible.
Let our 10 smart moves increase the chances your "new" used vehicle will be a great purchase:
Smart Move 1. Although the reliability of all vehicles has improved over the last decade, some are better than others. Take the time to check out the model you are considering.
Two sources of reliability information are Consumer Reports magazine's April auto issue, available in the library or through the Consumer Reports Web site, and J.D. Power and Associates, an independent research company that polls buyers about their cars and trucks.
Think twice before buying a model that has significantly more problems than average, especially if major mechanical components such as the engine or transmission are prone to breakdowns.
Smart Move 2. Insist on taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for an examination, something any reputable seller should allow. If the seller refuses, walk away.
Make sure the mechanic examining the vehicle is familiar with the brand and has some kind of certification of expertise from a group such as the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence or ASE. This checkup could cost $100 to $200 (get the price first), but that's cheap compared to finding out too late about serious problems.
Smart Move 3. Check the history of the vehicle through a service such as Experian's AutoCheck or Carfax. For about $20 you can use the vehicle identification number (VIN) to see in which state the vehicle was purchased and whether it has been registered in other states. Such checks are not perfect but they may alert you if the vehicle was in a serious crash or other mishap such as a flood.
If you are buying from a dealer, insist that the dealer provide you with such a report for free and carefully compare the VIN number on the vehicle with that on the report to make sure they are the same.
Smart Move 4. If saving money is your priority, then you should try to buy from an individual rather than a new car dealer.
When you've found one you like, use Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out how much it's worth.
Their calculators will ask for lots of information about the car or truck, from the make and model to its mileage and optional equipment. In the end you'll be given three values. The lowest is what the car would be worth as a trade in, or being sold by an individual, or by a new-car dealer.
The "private party" price is always lower than the dealer price because there's more risk. You won't get a warranty (unless some of the original factory warranty remains) and some naughty people sell cosmetically reconditioned wrecks to bargain hunters just like you.
Smart Move 5. If reliability is most important to you, and you are willing to pay extra for the peace of mind it provides, go to a new-car dealer and buy a certified used vehicle.
Certified vehicles are supposed to undergo rigorous inspection and testing by dealership mechanics before being resold. They typically have fewer miles and cosmetic problems too, and come with some type of warranty, though such agreements can vary considerably.
But that will raise the purchase price by an average of $1,680, according to J.D. Power and Associates.
Smart move 6. Check for a warranty. The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to place a "Buyer's Guide" on the vehicle that tells whether the vehicle has a warranty and what that warranty covers.
If there' no warranty, the "Buyer's Guide" must be marked "as is." That means you take your chances.
Get any promises in writing. Verbal promises don't carry any weight in a dispute. Pull out paper and pencil anytime a salesperson says, "We'll fix anything that goes wrong."
Some newer vehicles may have part of the original manufacturer's warranty in effect. This will be particularly true when '07 models begin to be resold because several automakers began offering longer warranties this model year.
Just remember, parts of that warranty could be voided if the previous owner didn't do all the proper maintenance, so pay attention to the next recommendation.
Smart move 7. Ask the dealer or private owners for service records. Ask the dealer if the original owner bought the vehicle at the dealership. Then, ask if the owner had it serviced at the dealership. If the answer is yes, ask for the service records.
If the dealer balks claiming there is a privacy issue, ask him or her to contact the previous owner and get permission, or to simply cross out the previous owner's name and address before showing the records to you. If the dealer refuses or a private owner says he doesn't have the records, go elsewhere.
Smart move 8. Don't rush into a deal. You do not have three days to return a vehicle and get your money back. That's a common misperception. To see if your state gives you any special rights as a used-car buyer go to state attorney general's web site and check under consumer protection.
Smart move 9. If you're buying from a new-car dealership, check its reputation with the Better Business Bureau and your state's attorney general. Ask friends and family if they know anybody who has had a good -- or bad -- experience.
Be particularly wary of independent used-car lots. It's even more important to verify their reputation before you buy.
Smart move 10. Safety is important. Favor cars and trucks that offer such lifesaving features as anti-lock brakes, side-curtain air bags and electronic stability control, which automatically tries to correct for a skid.
Also, check out how well the vehicle did in crash tests. The most demanding tests available to the public are done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Think twice before buying a model that scored poorly on two or more of the institute's tests.
Dealers that sell and service the brand of vehicle you're considering can use the vehicle identification number to determine if your car or truck has ever been recalled for a safety defect, and if it the repairs were made.
This isn't a deal breaker. Automakers must fix safety problems for free, no matter who owns the vehicle or how long ago the recall was issued. But you should know what repairs are needed, and be prepared to get them done, before you buy.
By Chris and Cheryl Jensen
Interest.com Contributing Editors
Most three- or four-year old cars and trucks can be surprisingly reliable because automakers have done so much to improve the durability of every model.
They cost a lot less, too -- an average of $14,925, or just a little more than half as much as the typical new vehicle.
But buying used can be an expensive and tragic game of rush-in roulette if you're too hasty.
You don't want to overpay, get a vehicle that's been abused, crashed or dunked in a flood, dried out and shipped off to be sold to the gullible.
Let our 10 smart moves increase the chances your "new" used vehicle will be a great purchase:
Smart Move 1. Although the reliability of all vehicles has improved over the last decade, some are better than others. Take the time to check out the model you are considering.
Two sources of reliability information are Consumer Reports magazine's April auto issue, available in the library or through the Consumer Reports Web site, and J.D. Power and Associates, an independent research company that polls buyers about their cars and trucks.
Think twice before buying a model that has significantly more problems than average, especially if major mechanical components such as the engine or transmission are prone to breakdowns.
Smart Move 2. Insist on taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for an examination, something any reputable seller should allow. If the seller refuses, walk away.
Make sure the mechanic examining the vehicle is familiar with the brand and has some kind of certification of expertise from a group such as the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence or ASE. This checkup could cost $100 to $200 (get the price first), but that's cheap compared to finding out too late about serious problems.
Smart Move 3. Check the history of the vehicle through a service such as Experian's AutoCheck or Carfax. For about $20 you can use the vehicle identification number (VIN) to see in which state the vehicle was purchased and whether it has been registered in other states. Such checks are not perfect but they may alert you if the vehicle was in a serious crash or other mishap such as a flood.
If you are buying from a dealer, insist that the dealer provide you with such a report for free and carefully compare the VIN number on the vehicle with that on the report to make sure they are the same.
Smart Move 4. If saving money is your priority, then you should try to buy from an individual rather than a new car dealer.
When you've found one you like, use Edmunds.com or Kelley Blue Book to find out how much it's worth.
Their calculators will ask for lots of information about the car or truck, from the make and model to its mileage and optional equipment. In the end you'll be given three values. The lowest is what the car would be worth as a trade in, or being sold by an individual, or by a new-car dealer.
The "private party" price is always lower than the dealer price because there's more risk. You won't get a warranty (unless some of the original factory warranty remains) and some naughty people sell cosmetically reconditioned wrecks to bargain hunters just like you.
Smart Move 5. If reliability is most important to you, and you are willing to pay extra for the peace of mind it provides, go to a new-car dealer and buy a certified used vehicle.
Certified vehicles are supposed to undergo rigorous inspection and testing by dealership mechanics before being resold. They typically have fewer miles and cosmetic problems too, and come with some type of warranty, though such agreements can vary considerably.
But that will raise the purchase price by an average of $1,680, according to J.D. Power and Associates.
Smart move 6. Check for a warranty. The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to place a "Buyer's Guide" on the vehicle that tells whether the vehicle has a warranty and what that warranty covers.
If there' no warranty, the "Buyer's Guide" must be marked "as is." That means you take your chances.
Get any promises in writing. Verbal promises don't carry any weight in a dispute. Pull out paper and pencil anytime a salesperson says, "We'll fix anything that goes wrong."
Some newer vehicles may have part of the original manufacturer's warranty in effect. This will be particularly true when '07 models begin to be resold because several automakers began offering longer warranties this model year.
Just remember, parts of that warranty could be voided if the previous owner didn't do all the proper maintenance, so pay attention to the next recommendation.
Smart move 7. Ask the dealer or private owners for service records. Ask the dealer if the original owner bought the vehicle at the dealership. Then, ask if the owner had it serviced at the dealership. If the answer is yes, ask for the service records.
If the dealer balks claiming there is a privacy issue, ask him or her to contact the previous owner and get permission, or to simply cross out the previous owner's name and address before showing the records to you. If the dealer refuses or a private owner says he doesn't have the records, go elsewhere.
Smart move 8. Don't rush into a deal. You do not have three days to return a vehicle and get your money back. That's a common misperception. To see if your state gives you any special rights as a used-car buyer go to state attorney general's web site and check under consumer protection.
Smart move 9. If you're buying from a new-car dealership, check its reputation with the Better Business Bureau and your state's attorney general. Ask friends and family if they know anybody who has had a good -- or bad -- experience.
Be particularly wary of independent used-car lots. It's even more important to verify their reputation before you buy.
Smart move 10. Safety is important. Favor cars and trucks that offer such lifesaving features as anti-lock brakes, side-curtain air bags and electronic stability control, which automatically tries to correct for a skid.
Also, check out how well the vehicle did in crash tests. The most demanding tests available to the public are done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Think twice before buying a model that scored poorly on two or more of the institute's tests.
Dealers that sell and service the brand of vehicle you're considering can use the vehicle identification number to determine if your car or truck has ever been recalled for a safety defect, and if it the repairs were made.
This isn't a deal breaker. Automakers must fix safety problems for free, no matter who owns the vehicle or how long ago the recall was issued. But you should know what repairs are needed, and be prepared to get them done, before you buy.
By Chris and Cheryl Jensen
Interest.com Contributing Editors
How to Understand the Basics of Car Maintenance
Sometimes you may have heard it said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." That is the beginning of many problems. Phases one and two of maintenance require "fixing" what isn't broken.
Steps
1. The most obvious phase of maintenance is the repair function. Very simply stated, this means, "if it breaks, fix it." This is actually the third phase and means exactly what it says. It is a last resort and should arise only at infrequent intervals.
2. Phase one is systematic daily maintenance. The machine operator is usually responsible for this part. He/she simply cleans the equipment, observing anything out of the ordinary and reporting it to the maintenance department. This allows replacement of parts about to malfunction thus preventing chaining of problems.
3. Phase two is the regularly scheduled maintenance to include changing of fluids, thorough cleaning of parts not normally seen by the operator and a more detailed inspection for parts about to malfunction. This would include parts that are bent or broken, to include any possible cracks, obvious wear and signs of lack of lubrication.
4. It can readily be seen that proper performance of phases one and two will greatly reduce the occurrence of phase three, breakdown repair.
5. The greatest incentive for performing phases one and two regularly is that machine breakdown will invariably occur when the machine is used, and most often when it is being used most heavily. A machine that is idle simply doesn't break down.
Steps
1. The most obvious phase of maintenance is the repair function. Very simply stated, this means, "if it breaks, fix it." This is actually the third phase and means exactly what it says. It is a last resort and should arise only at infrequent intervals.
2. Phase one is systematic daily maintenance. The machine operator is usually responsible for this part. He/she simply cleans the equipment, observing anything out of the ordinary and reporting it to the maintenance department. This allows replacement of parts about to malfunction thus preventing chaining of problems.
3. Phase two is the regularly scheduled maintenance to include changing of fluids, thorough cleaning of parts not normally seen by the operator and a more detailed inspection for parts about to malfunction. This would include parts that are bent or broken, to include any possible cracks, obvious wear and signs of lack of lubrication.
4. It can readily be seen that proper performance of phases one and two will greatly reduce the occurrence of phase three, breakdown repair.
5. The greatest incentive for performing phases one and two regularly is that machine breakdown will invariably occur when the machine is used, and most often when it is being used most heavily. A machine that is idle simply doesn't break down.
Tips & Warning of How to Change the Oil in Your Car
Tips
Warnings
- Never, ever work under a car that is up on a jack. Jack the car up, then put it on a jackstand.
- Be aware of the heat of some parts of the car that you'll be working around. No one likes to get burned.
- Be sure you have the drain plug in and filter attached before adding oil and starting the car.
- This how-to is not meant for all cars, and certainly shouldn't be your only source of information. Always consult your owner's manual for manufacturer's recommendations when determining your maintenance schedule.
- Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission if you put oil in it.
- If you don't use the correct wrench on the drain plug bolt you run the risk of "rounding it off" (destroying the head of the bolt).
- Watch out, the oil may be very hot if you have been running the engine. Burned flesh can result.
- Do NOT over tighten the new filter, always tighten it by hand and not with a wrench.
Things You'll Need
- Oil (check your owner's manual for specific weight and quantity needed)
- Socket wrench (for foreign cars you will likely need a metric set)
- Oil filter (contact your local auto parts store for specific model of filter)
- Oil filter socket (if applicable)
- A way to get your car off the ground (ramps or a jack & jackstands work best)
Something to catch the used oil in - Oil rags or paper towel (optional)
- Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require screwdrivers.
- Washer fluid (optional) Since most lube-places replace washer fluid, it's likely a good time to do the same.
How to Change the Oil in Your Car
Regular oil changes are critical to maintaining your vehicle. Over time the oil in your car breaks down and loses some of its lubricating properties. It can become contaminated with things like dirt, water, and fuel that reduce its effectiveness. Plan to change your motor oil on the cycle recommended in your car's manual. For some vehicles, it's 3,000 miles or three months, but for many vehicles, it's 5,000 miles. However, you may want to do it more often if you've been driving in very hot and/or dusty conditions or make very frequent short trips.
Steps
1. Start off by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands (Note: many cars with a high ground clearance don't need to be raised, and you can just shimmy on under. This saves time and is safer; if the car isn't up it can't fall down!) The car should have been running for about 5 minutes to get the oil warmed up.
2. Locate the drain plug for the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. The bolt size will vary from car to car, is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyota and Lexus are 14mm, all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguar’s are 30mm, older Volvo’s are 25mm, BMW's are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm all others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles it will be necessary to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pick up's and SUV’s will have steel skid plates. After locating the bolt, loosen it, but do not remove it from the pan.
3. Position whatever you are "catching" the oil with under the plug. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large.
4. Continue removing the bolt. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff. (TIP: If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.)
5. While your oil is draining, pop the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier. This step is working better when done before working under the car.
6. Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position on, and can be on the front, back and side of engines. Some cars use paper cartridge filters such as Mercedes, BMW, and very few other cars including some Toyotas, Oldsmobile’s and newer Volvos. All 4 cylinder Toyota’s and Lexus’s use the same filter which will be located in the front of the engine below the exhaust manifold. The same is true of all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines, they use the same filter and it is located beneath the exhaust manifold with very little room to access it. BMW’s all have paper cartridge filters located in an aluminum container towards the front of the engine and require a 13mm bolt to be removed to take the cap of the container. Older Volvo’s have the same filter located on the passenger side of the engine block; it will be difficult to get the filter out due to parts in your way. Newer Volvo’s have paper cartridge filters located on a corner of their oil pan in a black plastic container that requires a large socket to remove, be careful as oil will spill out because the cup only covers half the filter. Four cylinder Honda’s will have their filter on the back of the block above the left CV shaft. Mercedes will have their paper cartridge filters in one of 3 places in order of most common to least common. First in the front of the engine slightly to the right, second back behind the engine next to the fire wall about two inches below the top of the valve cover, and some times down to the left below the exhaust manifold. All Mercedes filters are inside an aluminum canister with a black plastic top requiring a large socket. Also make sure to pre fill oil filters with the threads facing up as the engine is expecting the filter to remain full of oil. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. If you can't get it off by hand use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying, it will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it.
7. Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Lubricate the gasket on the new oil filter with oil and carefully screw on the new filter while being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters they will always come with at least one o-ring some times as many as four different ones, make sure to replace all of them in insure that they will not leak.
8. Add oil to the car at the fill hole up to the specs in the owner's manual. You don't want to overfill!
9. Older Toyota Corolla’s will take a little over 3 quarts, newer Corolla’s will take exactly 4, Camry's will take 3 7/8, and all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines will take 5 quarts. 4 cylinder Honda’s and Acura’s will take 4 to 4 1/2 quarts. Otherwise add four quarts and check the dip stick and add more until it reads full. Now start the car and run the engine for about 10-15 seconds then check the oil level again and add oil to the full line. On some cars such as a V8 Mercedes it can take as much as 8 1/2 quarts. Also be aware that some new Mercedes do not come with dipsticks so be sure to measure how much oil you took out and put back the same amount (normally 8 quarts). Finally make sure to use good oil not the cheapest stuff you can find it really makes a difference. Some Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and BMW will require either Mobil 1 synthetic or Castrol Syntec synthetic oil.
10. Replace the fill cap and close the hood.
11. Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the Parking Brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.
12. Make sure to change the oil on a regular cycle, as recommended by your car's specifications. 3,000 miles is a good benchmark for conventional motor oil (with 6,000 miles being the standard for full synthetic), but for many vehicles, the duration between conventional oil changes may be longer.
Steps
1. Start off by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands (Note: many cars with a high ground clearance don't need to be raised, and you can just shimmy on under. This saves time and is safer; if the car isn't up it can't fall down!) The car should have been running for about 5 minutes to get the oil warmed up.
2. Locate the drain plug for the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. The bolt size will vary from car to car, is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyota and Lexus are 14mm, all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguar’s are 30mm, older Volvo’s are 25mm, BMW's are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm all others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles it will be necessary to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pick up's and SUV’s will have steel skid plates. After locating the bolt, loosen it, but do not remove it from the pan.
3. Position whatever you are "catching" the oil with under the plug. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large.
4. Continue removing the bolt. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff. (TIP: If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.)
5. While your oil is draining, pop the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier. This step is working better when done before working under the car.
6. Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position on, and can be on the front, back and side of engines. Some cars use paper cartridge filters such as Mercedes, BMW, and very few other cars including some Toyotas, Oldsmobile’s and newer Volvos. All 4 cylinder Toyota’s and Lexus’s use the same filter which will be located in the front of the engine below the exhaust manifold. The same is true of all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines, they use the same filter and it is located beneath the exhaust manifold with very little room to access it. BMW’s all have paper cartridge filters located in an aluminum container towards the front of the engine and require a 13mm bolt to be removed to take the cap of the container. Older Volvo’s have the same filter located on the passenger side of the engine block; it will be difficult to get the filter out due to parts in your way. Newer Volvo’s have paper cartridge filters located on a corner of their oil pan in a black plastic container that requires a large socket to remove, be careful as oil will spill out because the cup only covers half the filter. Four cylinder Honda’s will have their filter on the back of the block above the left CV shaft. Mercedes will have their paper cartridge filters in one of 3 places in order of most common to least common. First in the front of the engine slightly to the right, second back behind the engine next to the fire wall about two inches below the top of the valve cover, and some times down to the left below the exhaust manifold. All Mercedes filters are inside an aluminum canister with a black plastic top requiring a large socket. Also make sure to pre fill oil filters with the threads facing up as the engine is expecting the filter to remain full of oil. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. If you can't get it off by hand use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying, it will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it.
7. Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Lubricate the gasket on the new oil filter with oil and carefully screw on the new filter while being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters they will always come with at least one o-ring some times as many as four different ones, make sure to replace all of them in insure that they will not leak.
8. Add oil to the car at the fill hole up to the specs in the owner's manual. You don't want to overfill!
9. Older Toyota Corolla’s will take a little over 3 quarts, newer Corolla’s will take exactly 4, Camry's will take 3 7/8, and all Toyota and Lexus V6 engines will take 5 quarts. 4 cylinder Honda’s and Acura’s will take 4 to 4 1/2 quarts. Otherwise add four quarts and check the dip stick and add more until it reads full. Now start the car and run the engine for about 10-15 seconds then check the oil level again and add oil to the full line. On some cars such as a V8 Mercedes it can take as much as 8 1/2 quarts. Also be aware that some new Mercedes do not come with dipsticks so be sure to measure how much oil you took out and put back the same amount (normally 8 quarts). Finally make sure to use good oil not the cheapest stuff you can find it really makes a difference. Some Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and BMW will require either Mobil 1 synthetic or Castrol Syntec synthetic oil.
10. Replace the fill cap and close the hood.
11. Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the Parking Brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.
12. Make sure to change the oil on a regular cycle, as recommended by your car's specifications. 3,000 miles is a good benchmark for conventional motor oil (with 6,000 miles being the standard for full synthetic), but for many vehicles, the duration between conventional oil changes may be longer.
Biography of Colin Chapman
Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman (19 May 1928 - 16 December 1982) was an influential British designer, inventor, and builder in the automotive industry. In 1952 he founded the sports car company Lotus Cars. He studied structural engineering at University College London where he joined the University Air Squadron and learned to fly. After graduating in 1948, he briefly joined the Royal Air Force. His knowledge of the latest aeronautical engineering techniques would prove vital towards achieving the major automotive technical advances he is remembered for. Under his direction, Team Lotus won seven Formula One World Championships, plus the Indianapolis 500 in the United States, between 1962 and 1978. The production side of Lotus Cars has built tens of thousands of relatively affordable, cutting edge sports cars. Lotus is one of but a handful of British performance car builders still in business after the industrial decline of the 1970s. Chapman suffered a heart attack in 1982 and died, aged 54.
In 1948 Chapman started with the Mk1, a modified Austin 7, which he entered privately into local racing events. He named the car "Lotus"; he never confirmed the reason but one (of several) theories is that it was after his then girlfriend (later wife) Hazel, who he nicknamed "Lotus blossom". With prize money won he developed the Lotus Mk2. With continuing success on through the Lotus 6, he began to sell kits of these cars. Over 100 of the Lotus 6 kits were sold through 1956. It was with the Lotus 7 in 1957 that things really took off, and indeed Caterham Cars still manufacture a version of that car today – the Caterham 7; there have been over 90 different Lotus 7 clones, replicas, and derivatives offered to the public by a variety of makers.
In the 1950s, Chapman progressed through the motor racing formulae, designing and building a series of racing cars, sometimes to the point of being in limited production they were so successful and highly sought after, until he arrived in Formula 1. Along with John Cooper, he revolutionised the premier motor sport. Their small, lightweight mid-engined vehicles gave away much in terms of power, but superior handling meant their competing cars often beat the all-conquering front engined Ferraris and Maseratis. Eventually, with legendary driver Jim Clark at the wheel of his race cars, Team Lotus came to appear as though they could win whenever they pleased. With Clark driving the legendary Lotus 25 Team Lotus won its first F1 World Championship in 1963. It was Clark, driving a Lotus 38 at the Indianapolis 500 in 1965, who drove the first ever mid-engined car to victory at the fabled "Brickyard." Certainly, Jim Clark would have won many more races were it not for his untimely death in 1968 while racing a Formula 2 car at Hockenheimring. (The accident was most likely caused by a rear tire failure, though the exact cause has never been known.) Clark and Chapman had become particularly close and Clark's death devastated Chapman, who publicly stated that he had lost his best friend.
Among a number of legendary automotive figures who have been Lotus employees over the years were Mike Costin and Keith Duckworth, founders of Cosworth.
Chapman, who came from relatively humble roots, was also a businessman who introduced major advertising sponsorship into auto racing; beginning the process which changed Formula One from rich gentlemen's pastime, to multi-million pound high technology enterprise. It was Chapman who in 1966 persuaded the Ford Motor Company to sponsor Cosworth's development of what would become the legendary DFV race engine. Shortly before his death he became involved in John De Lorean's De Lorean Motor Company troubled venture to manufacture sports cars in Northern Ireland. The full extent of his involvement has never been proved, but it is believed he would have been investigated for possible complicity in the manipulation of government loans during the development of the De Lorean car. Fred Bushell, Chapman's colleague and close confidante, pleaded guilty in 1992 to "Conspiring with the late Colin Chapman and others to defraud the De Lorean Motor Company" and was sentenced to four years in prison. De Lorean himself was tried on drug-trafficking charges and acquitted.
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